You are on page 1of 38

Garments Construction Standards Contents Section 1: - Components and trims Fabric Interlinings Internal trims Linings Threads Zips

ads Zips Buttons Fastenings, rivets and studs Trims, belts and motifs Elastication Accessories Section 2: - Manufacturing guidelines Garments Accessories Section 3: - Presentation guidelines Pressing Finished Goods Labels Packing Section 4: - Safety Garments Accessories Replacement Needle Procedure Good Housekeeping Guide Section 5: - Childrens Safety Requirements Fabric / Materials / Components Design Aspects Textile Accessories Metal Content Toxicity Nickel Lab Test

Internal trim

For menswear Poly/cotton woven pocketing must be used. /


Lining For padded garments the lining must be quilted or stitched at appropriate intervals to prevent the padding from falling. Padding must not escape through the weave of the outer fabric of the inner lining.

Lining must not be visible beyond the hemline of cuffs of a garment. The lining must finish 2.5 cm(1inch)above the hem, and cover the hem stitching.
2.5CM(1)

The fibres used in the lining must be stated on the care lab Sewing thread Must be a good colour match unless intended as a contrast. Must be colourfast to washing and light. 100% Polyester thread must be used on products with low flammability requirements. 100% Bulk thread should be used in over-lock loopers when sewing Elastane fabrics.

Monofilament thread is not acceptable for use at any time.

SECTION 1 COMPONENTS AND TRIMS


The following section gives a summary of the general quality assurance procedures for components trims.

All components trims must be suitable for the after care of the garment according to the wash care instructions given.

Fabric

Take care to make sure that all fabrics with raised fibers that produce a nap, or fabric that is cut one way design, are cut so that separate panels and separate garment pieces run in the same direction.

Fabric faults are not acceptable in garments unless they are inherent in the fabric and are agreed at the buying stage.

Variations of shading are unacceptable within a garment, or from one garment to another. Garment pieces must be numbered after cutting.

Interlinings Garments showing delamination (bubbling), glue marks or strike through caused by interlining are not acceptable. All interlinings must be applied using correct temperatures with fusing machines tested at regular intervals.

Zips Only zips approved by visage are accepted.

Spring lock or auto lock zips must be used. Auto lock zips are preferred. Pintuck zips are not acceptable.

The base of an open-ended zip must be reinforced where attached to the fabric. The zip slider must not be obstructed.

The tops of the zips should be secured with a top zip stop where necessary. No sharp edges should protrude at the top. All surplus zip teeth should be removed.

There must be no sharp edges exposed at the bottom of the zip tape. These must be trimmed back or if possible enclosed in the hem fabric. All metal parts must be removed.

Buttons
All garments must carry a spare button of each ligne used. There must be 2 spare buttons if the garment has 10 buttons or more.

Buttons must be securely attached using a lockstitch machine.

Metal components must be nickel free.

Non- toxic buttons must be used.

Buttons used on childrenswear must not be two-part.

Buttons used on childrenswear must not represent any form of food substance.

Fastenings, poppers, and studs Fastening must be securely attached to the garment without causing damage to the fabric of the fastener itself. There must be no sharp edges

Metal fasteners and components must not rust after washing.

Post fasteners must not be used on woven fabrics and prongs on knitted fabrics.

The length of the post or prong must be appropriate for the fabric thickness.

Lightweight knitted fabrics may require interlining to prevent laddering.

All garments with fastenings must be opened and closed during inspection.

All fastenings must meet customers pull test regulations.

Record of pull testing should be kept for 1 year.

Belts, trims and motifs If detachable trims e.g. belts, are not washable, this must shown on the sewn-in care label.

If motifs prints and trims cant be ironed, this must be shown on the sewn -in label.

There must be backing on fabric of washable belts.

Elastication Stitching must not crack.

The join of the elastic must be secured by double stitching to at least 2cm.
2

Elastic should be attached in a way that prevents twisting or rolling. Any fullness must be distributed evenly.

Accessories All attachments and finishes must be free from rust, tarnish and sharp edges.

Belts must always be fastened in the center hole.

Belts should always be kimbal attached to garment for security.

SECTION 2 MANUFACTURING GUIDELINES

Garments
The way garments are cut; put together and finished will influence their appearance and durability due to the garments being worn often.

All excess threads must be trimmed and removed from the garment.

Stitching must be correctly spaced and tensioned to make sure there is no seam grinning, but the seam must stretch in relation to the fabric properties. Do not use lock stitch on stretch fabrics. We recommend 10 to 12 stitches in every 2.5cm of woven fabrics, but the seam must stretch in relation to the fabric properties.
2.510-12

All visible raw edges of woven fabrics must be overlocked or neatened.

A single thread chain stitch is not acceptable.

All back rise seams should be two-thread chain stitch or double row lock stitch.

All neck closure seams should be 1cm past the shoulder seam towards the back of the garment.
1

The edges of quilted garment parts must be stitched before the parts are assembled.

Felting should be latched off with no run back of loose ends.

To prevent Elastane runback and needle damage on Elastane blend fabrics, we recommend you use ballpoint needles.

Shoulder tape must be used for knitwear and jerseywear.

All pockets, sleeves cuffs and collar points must be paired.

All stress points (e.g. belt loops, crotch seams, etc.) must be adequately reinforced.

Buttonholes must be lock stitched and they must have sufficient stitch density to avoid fraying. For jeans and trousers use gimp thread in buttonholes

On pocket top corners must be adequately reinforced either by triangle tack or bar tack.

On jeans the placket / fly area should be faced or double fabric thickness.
/

Wovens must also be fused. There must be at least one bar-tack to reinforce the bottom of the placket. The fly facing or shield should be tapered and reinforced with tacking or fabric tape. The zip should be sturdy enough for the garment fabric and adequate length to easily put on the jeans. The zippers for the jeans must have a lock feature.

That is that the zip puller should remain at the top when stress is applied.

Also on jeans flat fell seams double or triple stitching provides flat, firm enclosed seams. These must be smoothly constructed. This seam construction encases the seam allowance so there is no raveling during wearing or washing. If seams are not fell flat, you must ensure seams are serged (overcast) to cover the raw edges and thus prevent raveling.

Stitch/ seam types / Lock stitch Used for topstitching, French seams, attaching trims and components, lining, collar and cuff seams.
Double lock-chain stitch

4-thread overlock Used for seams on fleece, light and medium weight wovens and knitwear.
5-thread overlock

Used for seams on jeans, medium and heavy weight wovens.


Flatlock

Used on jerseywear as a decorative feature.

Coverseam Back neck finish for T-shirt and knitwear. Decorative at hems.
T

Used for multi-needle elastication

3- thread overlock Used for seams on T-shirts.


T

Accessories All items must be securely fixed and must work as intended.

Decorative detailing such as embroidery, contrasting pocket inserts or piping should be evenly and smoothly applied.

Buttonholes should be functional, clearly cut and stitched closely with no loose threads or exposed edges.

Quality pockets have edges carefully turned and have been placed evenly and securely on the garment.

Lining and pocket fabric should be durable with the edges finished.

Hems should be even, flat and securely stitched before pressing, as this problem will not press out after customer washes it.

SECTION 3 PRESENTATION GUIDELINES

Pockets should be tack stitch closed on formal garments with a large, loose stitch, unless otherwise specified

Garments should not be creased, crushed or glazed, Impressions must not be visible in any area.

Before packing all garments should be cleared of loose threads, loose fibres and any work tickets.

All garments should be given enough time to dry thoroughly and relax before packing.

Ribs must not be steam pressed.

Correct size packing card must be used to fit size of garments.

If garments do not fit size of box, suitable packaging is to be used.

Bags and wrappers are to be BHT free and of micron guage and must be recyclable.
BHT

Pressing

Pre pressing - ensure the characteristics of the fabric are assessed.

Allowances should be made for shrinkage during pressing, in accordance with the relevant lab results.

Presses should be adjusted to avoid glazing, Distortion, colour changes, press creases and damage to fabric.

Hand ironing

Steam and heat are required to press shape. Vacuum Heat (no steam) are required to set shape

All seams to be pressed consistently in one direction.

Open seams must always be pressed open and flat.

All linings must be smooth with no impressions on the lining or outer fabric.The whole garment must be pressed.

Dolly Pressing/Steam Cabinets /

These must only be used where a satisfactory finish can be achieved on the particular garment and fabric type.

Flat Beds Knitted garments must not be stretched in order to achieve the specification.

Frames must be used wherever possible to standardize shape.

Finished Goods An examination sequence for each style should be adhered to at all times.

All garments must be given sufficient time to relax and dry thoroughly prior to packing.

Garments must be appropriately packed and stored in order to maintain the best possible retail standard.
The following points should be addressed:

- All garments should act in accordance with British and International Standards.

- The final garment must comply with Visage specification, in all aspects.

- The bulk production should conform to the individual customers seal of approval.

Labels Labels must be sourced and positioned as specified by Visage and the customer.

All sew in labels must be neatly and securely attached with all printing clearly visible.

Garment washed products must be labeled after washing.

Packing
Style number and size should be on front of the poly bag.

Safety Warning should be the on back of the poly bag.

All packing should be as instructed on the purchase orders.

10

SECTION 4 SAFETY REQUIREMENTS


Garments
All necessary precautions must be followed in production to minimise any risk to our customers. You must tell us of any issues that could risk the safety of our customers.

We expect you to take all possible precautions to make sure that no full or part needle remains in garments.

You must have a needle replacement policy and system in all your factories. This procedure must be documented and an updated log kept, ready for us to inspect if necessary. Photocopies must be faxed to us monthly.

If we find a full or part needle in a garment, this is classified as critical fault and will result in the product being rejected or recalled from stores, resulting in the whole delivery being rejected.

All components should be non- toxic.

Do not use staples, this includes all cartons.

Samples must be sent with paperwork signed, this will include measurements and any comments of observation.

Accessories
There must be no sharp edges that could result in injury to the wearer.

11

Visage Imports
Replacement Needle Policy The following policy applies to all regions within the factory, including the sample room; it applies to ALL garments produced for Visage.

A needle free environment must be achieved, all needles in use and in storage must be controlled and accounted for; this includes hand sewing, machine sewing, tag guns or for knitting.

Factory operatives must never be in possession of any spare needles. Only a supervisor or authorised person can distribute spare needles in exchange for broken or blunt ones. New needles must be stored in a safe place, preferably under lock and key, new needles will only be issued on a one for one basis after all pieces of the old one have been found

If all parts of a broken needle cant be found, then the bundles / garments on which the operative is working must be removed away from the line and passed through a metal detector.

If the factory does not have a metal detector, a magnet or hand held metal detector may be used to find the broken needle parts.

All suspect garments must be re-inspected carefully until every garment is accounted for. If any parts are still missing the entire garment(s) are to be disposed of safely.

Needle fragments are to be taped together in a broken needle record sheet, with the date, operative, if all parts are found and, if not, what action was taken and the supervisors signature.

Blunt / old needles must never be disposed of in waste bins or on the factory floor; they should be placed in a sealed, marked container which is kept well away from the production area, trimming store or mechanics workshops are ideal.
/

Suppliers are responsible for ensuring that this policy is applied to all areas of the factory, including the sample room, embroidery and appliqu.

Machines not in use must have the needle in the down position in a scrap of fabric.

12

Pins Pins must not be used in any part of the factory. This includes the sample rooms, cutting, make-up, inspection of packing area or any other areas where garments/components are handled.
/

Suppliers are responsible for ensuring that this policy is applied to embroidery, appliqu and printing operations whether in-house or on another site.

Any trims e.g. elastic and bindings, which arrive with pins securing the ends, are to have the pins removed immediately and replaced with tape. Hand Sewing and knit Needles Hand sewing labels are to be held by the supervisor or other authorised responsible person, needles should be issued and signed for at the beginning of each working period, at the end of each working period they should be returned to person responsible and signed as returned.

Hand sewing needles are not allowed in the production area, a quarantine area must be provided for the use of sewing needles.

Any garments that needs repairs due to the washing processes should be repaired by machine, as this will give a more consistent and stronger finish than by hand.

Knit needles for repairs must be inserted into a wooden holder with a cord attached, this can then be attached to the table.

In the event of a needle going missing all garments in the area must be checked with a metal detector, if it is not found the whole area is to be checked with a magnet and a hand held metal detector.

Staples, Paper Clips and Scissors Staples are not to be used on the factory floor.

Any document for use in production areas should have the staples removed.

Staples should not be used on patterns in production areas.

13

Metal paper clips are not to be used in production areas.

Thread clippers / small scissors for use by sewing operators should be attached to the machine.

Thread clippers for use by thread trimmers should be attached to the trimming table.

Sewing Accessories, Machine Parts and Screw Drivers


Thread unpickers should be attached to the sewing machine.

Tweezers (for threading of overlocking machines) should be attached to the sewing machine.

Mechanics should ensure that all machine parts (e.g. nuts, screws, springs etc.) are either replaced or completely removed from the machine. Particular attention should be paid to removing used buttonhole blades.

Spare presser feet, folders & other machine attachments should be stored away from the machine - ideally in the mechanics office.

Screwdrivers for use when changing sewing needles should be stored in a safe place with the needles. They should be issued by the supervisor with a new needle and returned by the operator when the needle has been changed.

All mechanics should be issued with a lockable toolbox. All tools should be stored in this box when not in use.

Metal Detectors Metal detectors are seen as an aid to prevent metal contamination, they are not however recommended as the sole means of preventing metal contamination

The metal detector itself must be tested at least once a day and the results recorded.

Any garment, which fails to pass through the metal detection stage, must be set aside and thoroughly checked for metal contamination. If the source of the contamination is not found then the garment must be destroyed.

14

Toxicity In order to achieve the desired appearance and effect many materials and components incorporate pigments, colourants, and lacquers or coatings. Where used they must comply with Toy Safety Standard BS EN 71: Part 3 : 1995. Concerning the Migration of Certain Toxic Elements.
199571

Fabrics must not contain heavy metals that migrate beyond the limits specified in this standard.

Dyestuffs can be toxic and cause harmful effects to humans. The EU publish a list of dyestuffs known to be harmful to humans. Such dyestuffs must not be used on any textile materials destined for Visage products.

It is the suppliers responsibility to keep abreast of any new developments on Toxicity. Garment makers must communicate the EU list to their fabric suppliers who, where relevant, must communicate to their fabric processors.

Fabrics and garment components can contain elements, which are toxic. Where such fabrics and components are used they must comply with the migration limits of the Toy Safety Standards BS EN: Part 3: 1995.

Fabrics for Visage merchandise must not contain heavy metals, which migrate beyond the limits specified in the above standard.

Fabric Suppliers must obtain a certificate from their fabric processors that the dyestuffs and chemicals used conform to the customers individual Environmental and Customer Health Code of Practice for Dyeing, Printing and Finishing. Dyestuffs, which are known to be harmful to humans, must not be used in fabrics supplied to Visage.

It is the Fabric Suppliers responsibility to keep abreast of any new developments on Toxicity and to communicate, where relevant, this information to their fabric processors.

15

Nickel

The Directive Nickel is the most frequent cause of contact allergy leading to dermatitis / eczema. The following European legislation has been introduced:- S.I. No 1668 The dangerous Substances Preparations (Nickel) (Safety) Regulations 2000.

Which products are affected?

All metal products (coated or non-coated) that have prolonged contact with the skin. These items may include, rivets / studs on jeans, belt and direct buckles etc. etc. For such products compliance with the Nickel Directive is mandatory.

The level of nickel permitted by the directive

The directive stipulates that when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, and following a period of two years normal wear (as specified in EN 12472:1998) the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed 0.5 micrograms /square cm/week
0.5

Test Methods to assess the presence of nickel (content & release)

Non- Destructive screening test (pr EN 12471: 1998) This is a portable kit & used as a tool for a front line, in house indicator of clear failures.

Nickel release Elusion Reference Method (BS EN 1811:1999)

This is the highest standard of testing which identify component, part release. If the item to be tested is coated (painted, lacquered etc.) it will be subjected to a corrosive abrasion test (BS EN 12742:1998)

A recognized test house must perform this test e.g. UKAS or HOKLAS accredited.
UKAS HOKLAS

16

GOOD HOUSEKEEPING PRACTICES

CUT WORK Check shelving weekly for rough edges and damages.

Bundle tables to be checked weekly for rough edges and splinters.

INLINE

When every new style is introduced to the line, a machine inspection must take place to ensure there are no sharp or rough edges, and that the general cleanliness of the equipment is acceptable.

All sewing needles must be changed at an acceptable frequency according to fabric being used.

There must be no unused, loose labels lying around on machines, all excess labels must be taken away from the sewing area.

At the end of every working day, sewing machines must have a piece of scrap fabric placed under the pressure foot, to prevent any oil contamination.

All extensions fitted to machines must be done so in a professional manner, with all exposed corners rounded off.

Garments for repair must be dealt with promptly and not hung on cotton stands.

All sewing equipment leaving the production lines must be cleaned down, free of all trims, i.e. threads, zip sliders, buttons etc, and sewn off onto a piece of scrap cloth.

17

PRESSING All pressing units must be kept clean and tidy.

Teflon shoes on irons must be checked on a weekly for wear and tear.

Sole plates on irons must be cleaned on a monthly basis.

Nylon mesh coverings on ironing tables must have their edges sealed by overlocking or binding, this will prevent snagging.

EXAMINATION Lux level of lighting should be checked twice annually, with lighting tubes changed when necessary.
Lux

Examination areas to be kept clean and tidy at all times.

All repairs to be cleared promptly.

DISPATCH
All dispatch areas must be kept clean and tidy.

All products waiting to be dispatched must be clearly marked up.

MISCELLANEOUS General housekeeping should be ongoing at all times.

Handling systems must be cleaned on a regular basis, with consideration being given when production changes from dark to light fabric and vise versa.

18

SECTION 5 CHILDRENSWEAR SAFETY REQUIREMENTS Introduction The safety of Visage products is paramount, no matter what the product is, nor who the customer may be!

One of the areas of the business, which is most sensitive to safety issues, is, of course, Childrenswear.

Avoided or minimised. This can be best achieved by careful consideration of all factors which impact on the safety of our products whether they are components, design or manufacturing related.

This document covers key requirements and considerations affecting Childrenswear, but it does not pretend to be exhaustive. All suppliers are expected carry out rigorous assessments of their products to identify potential risk. Those, for which there are doubts should be raised and discussed with the relevant Visage Buyer and Quality Personnel.

When selecting and sourcing materials, components and garment manufacturing units it is important that designers and supplier personnel provide relevant details relating to Childrenswear safety making known, at the earliest opportunity, the intended end use and age group.
Further reading

BS7907: 1197 Code of practice for The Design and Manufacture of Childrens Clothing to promote Mechanical Safety. Terms and Definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

Young child Person aged from birth to age 7 years (that is 6 years and 11 months) which includes all children up to and including a height of 134 cm. 134 Older child and young person Person aged from 7 years up to age 14 years (that is up to 13 years and 11 months) which includes all boys of height greater than 134 cm up to 182 cm and girls of height greater than 134 cm up to 176 cm.
134cm182cm 134cm176cm

19

Childrens clothing All garments intended by design, production route or selling route to be worn by children up to age of 14 years, including all garments intended for boys up to height 182 cm and for girls up to 176 cm.
182176

Drawstring Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel, loop(s) or eyelet(s) or similar, to adjust the size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.

NOTE 1

The protruding length of the drawstring may increase when closure is affected.

NOTE 2 For some garments a drawstring may be a loop with a tightening device rather than a single length with two ends that may or may not be tied.

Functional cord Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material with or without embellishment, such as toggle, pom-pom, feather or bead, of fixed length, which is used, to adjust the size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.

Decorative cord Non-functional cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material with or without embellishment such as toggle, pom-pom, feather or bead, of fixed length and not intended to be used to adjust the size of the garment opening or fasten the garment itself.

Elastic cord Cords containing yarns of rubber or elastodiene or elastane polymer or similar, having high extensibility and complete or near complete recovery.

Shoulder strap Functional cord joining the front and back of a garment top together, which is close fitting and passes over the shoulder.

20

Halter neck cord Functional cord worn round the back of the neck holding the garment (for example dress, blouse or bikini) top leaving the shoulder and back bare.

Sash Drawstring, decorative or functional cord of textile material of not less than 30 mm in width worn round the waist of a garment and tied in a bow.
30mm

Stirrup Narrow strip of textile or non-textile material attached to the lower hem of a trouser such that it passes under the foot or shoe to create a close fit to wearer.

Toggle Wooden, plastic, metal or otherwise composed piece attached to or present on, a drawstring, functional cord or decorative cord.

NOTE

Toggles may or may not be functional.

Loop Cord or narrow strip of fabric curved in shape, which may be fixed or adjustable in length, where both ends are attached to the garment.

Requirements

General

The ends of drawstrings, functional cords, and sashes, shall not be knotted and shall be secured to prevent fraying, for example by heat sealing or bar tacking. Doubling or folding of the ends is acceptable provided no hazard of entrapment is created.

Toggles shall only be used on drawstrings with no free ends or decorative cords.

Childrens garments shall not be designed to have drawstrings, decorative cords or functional cords, which emerge from the back of the garment or to be tied at the back.

21

NOTE

Sashes are exempt.

Where they are permitted, drawstrings shall be secured, for example using a bar tack, in at least one point positioned equidistant from the exit points.

Fixed loops, which protrude from the garment, for example to fasten, shall be no more than 75 mm in circumference.
()75mm.

All measurements shall be carried out in accordance to EN standard.

Hood and neck area on garments for young children

Garments intended for young children shall not be designed, manufactured or supplied with drawstrings, functional cords or decorative cords in the hood or neck area.

Hood and neck area on garments for older children and young persons

Drawstrings shall not have free ends.

When the opening of the garment is at its largest and the garment is laid flat there shall be no protruding loop. When the garment opening is at its smallest, that is the size it is intended to fit, maximum protruding loop circumference shall be 150 mm.
150mm

Functional cords shall not be more than 75 mm in length at either end.


75mm.

Functional cords shall not be made from elastic cords.

Decorative cords shall not be more than 75 mm in length at either end including any attachment such as a toggle.
75mm

Decorative cords shall not be made from elastic cords.

Halter neck style garments shall be constructed with no loose ends in the hook and neck area.

22

Waist area of garments Drawstrings in the waist area shall protrude by a maximum of 140 mm at each end when the garment is flat on pattern and by no more than 280 mm when closed to the intended waist size.
140mm280mm

Functional cords and decorative cords in the waist area shall be a maximum of 140 mm including any embellishment on decorative cords.
140mm

Belt loops shall be designed to lie flat against the garment.

Sashes shall be acceptable provided that when untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment. The length of the sash when untied measured from the point where it is to be tied shall be no more than 360 mm.
360mm.

Lower hems of garments which hang below the waist

Drawstrings, decorative cords or functional cords including any toggle on the lower edges of garments where the lower edge is situated below the hip shall not hang below the lower edge of the garment and should be totally inside the garment. If they are external to the garment, the drawstring or cord shall lie flat against the garment, when the garment is fastened or tightened.

There shall be no protruding drawstrings, functional cords or decorative cords on the bottom hem of coats, trousers or skirts, which are designed to finish at the ankle.

NOTE

Stirrups at the hem of trousers are acceptable.

Sleeves

Drawstrings, functional cords and decorative cords at the lower edge of long sleeved garments shall be totally on the inside of the garment, when the garment is finished.

Drawstrings, functional cords and decorative cords are acceptable on short sleeved garments provided the sleeve finishes above the elbow and the maximum protruding length is 140 mm measured laid flat on pattern.
140mm

23

Fabric / Materials / Fabric and materials should be selected with consideration. They should not risk or hazard in wear when forming part of a garment. Consideration should be given to determining the continued performance of the fabrics in accordance with the fabric care label.

Other parts of the garment In all other areas of the garment, not previously addressed, the drawstring or functional and decorative cords shall protrude by no more than 140 mm when the garment is open to its largest.
140mm

Flammability Labeling Brushed surface and pile fabrics, irrespective of age group, must carry on the labels:

KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE AND NAKED FLAME

Surface Flash Test

Brushed or pile fabrics (excluding 100% Polyester fleece & corduroy) for all childrenswear must be tested for flash flame BS 4569 (1990)
100%

Ramie/Cotton /

Ramie/Cotton fabrics have a high propensity to rapid surface flashing when in contact with fire or naked flame and must not be used.

Reducing Flammability Properties

Wherever possible, polyester or blends with polyester should be used to reduce the flammability of cellulostic fibres.

Minimum Fabric Weights

To reduce the risk of flammability, cellulostic and silk fabrics below 140 g/m2 should not be used. However, fashion trends may demand the use of these lightweight fabrics. The buyer must decide whether the garment/fabric combination provides sufficiently low risk
140

24

Pile fabrics Pile fabrics should be selected from fabric construction with:

The lowest pile height to fulfill the aesthetic requirements of the end use.

The lowest fibre shedding properties.

At the present time there is no known test method with good repeatability for evaluating fibre-shedding properties of pile fabrics. When a suitable test method becomes available, then it will be included in the Visage Performance Standard.

Brushed or pile fabric (excluding 100% polyester fleece and corduroy) for all Childrenwear garments and accessories, must be tested Surface Flash Flame BS 4569: 1983 (1990)
100%

Stonewash Products All stones must be removed from stonewashed products. Products must be routinely pulled inside out before garments are dispatched to stores.

Waddings To reduce flammability properties, waddings must be made from heat-bonded polyester or synthetic fibres with low flammability properties rather than resin bonded polyester waddings.

Waddings should be firmly bonded to withstand cleansing (washing and dry cleaning) without fibre migration. Face fabrics must be of a suitable construction to minimise fibre percolation.

The following test can be used to verify the suitability of fabrics.

BS EN ISO 9237: 1995 Determination of the Permeability of Fabrics to Air. Fabrics should have an air permeability of less than 6.0 cc/cm2/sec at 0.98 mbar.
6.0 cc/cm2/sec at 0.98 mbar

Using a knitted, woven or non-woven scrim fabric covering the wadding prior to the face fabric or lining can provide further protection against fibre migration.

25

Garments, which contain waddings, fillings or foam, must be designed so that the filling material is inaccessible and secured by stitching.

Thread used to secure filling materials must be able to withstand a tensile force of 70N.
70N

Waddings or quilting must not contain sharp or hard objects.

Toxicity In order to achieve the desired appearance and effect, many materials & components incorporate pigments, colourants, laquers or coatings. Where used they must comply with Toy Safety Standard BS EN 71: Part 3 1995 concerning the Migration of Certain Toxic Elements.

Fabrics must not contain heavy metals, which migrate beyond the limits specified in this standard.

Dyestuffs can be toxic and cause harmful effects to humans. The EU publishes a list of dyestuffs known to be harmful to humans. Such dyestuffs must not be used on any textile materials destined for Visage products. Please refer to information regarding dying and finishing. t is the suppliers responsibility to keep abreast of any new developments on Toxicity.

Garment makers must communicate the EU list to their fabric suppliers who, where relevant, must communicate to their fabric processors.

General Components should be selected with consideration. They should not present a risk or a hazard when worn by a child. Components should not break or disintegrate when subjected to repeated aftercare in accordance with the garment label.

Buttons / Toggles Internal parts of the button should not have sharp edges since these may become exposed e.g. as a button covering wears away.

All exposed areas must be smooth and free from sharp edges.

26

Duffle coat style toggles must comply with either of the following:

Toggles with two holes must be attached by lockstitch.

Toggles which are attached with cord /fabric straps must be secure with a bar tack.
/

Toggles must not be fastened through large eyelets as childrens fingers can be

entrapped.

Material types Imitation waxed pearls These buttons are finished with a pearlescent hard wax finish. Some of these coatings contain high concentrations of lead. Suppliers must ensure that any waxed finished buttons DO NOT CONTAIN LEAD and comply with Toy Safety Standards BS EN71: Part 3:1995 concerning the Migration of Certain Toxic Elements.

Metal. Steel must not be used, as it will rust.

Nickel If nickel buttons are likely to be in prolonged & direct contact with the skin they must comply with the European Nickel Directive (S.I. No1668 The Dangerous Substances and Preparations (Nickel) (Safety Regulations 2000).

This limits the amount of nickel content and nickel release for the button. The Directive stipulates that when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, and following a period of two years normal wear (as specified in EN 12472: 1998 / BS EN 1811:1999), the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed 0.5 micrograms/square cm /week.
0.5

Where the buttons are stitched through lining, a backing / jigger button must be used. On single ply fabrics, functional buttons must have a reinforcing patch of interlining or self-fabric.

Buttons must be attached with a minimum of 14 stitches. 14 Spare buttons must not be attached to the garment in a plastic bag, they are to be attached on a satin tab, LHS seam as worn.

27

Dungaree Clips All dungaree clips used on Visage merchandise must comply with Toy Safety Standards, Section 8.4of BS EN 71 part1: 1998, assessment of button removal force. All exposed areas must be smooth and free from any sharp edges.

Attachment For ages 3 years and above the clips have a double sliding bar. Extra security can be provided on the clip ends by the strap being folded and stitched.

Fold back end of strap 2cm and stitch through 1cm from end with end facing out.
21 Press Fasteners / Stud Buttons / Rivet //

All Fasteners must meet with Visage Performance Standard For Fastenings.

All colourants/lacquers/coatings, where used must comply with Toy Safety Standards BSEN71:Part 3:1995concerning Migration Certain Toxic Elements.
/

If nickel fasteners/studs or rivets are likely to be in prolonged & direct contact with the skin they must comply with the European Nickel Directive (S.I.No.1668 The Dangerous Substances and Preparations (Nickel) (Safety) Regulations 2000)

This limits the amount of nickel content and nickel release for the button. The Directive stipulates that when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin and following a period of two years normal wear (as specified in EN12472: 1998/BS EN 1811:1999), the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed 0.5 micrograms / square cm / week.
0.5

General The failure of press fasteners is one of the single, most frequent, causes of customer complaint on childrens garments. The parents express concern that the child might have swallowed or choked on the metal fastener, or that injury is caused by sharp edges.

The correct and permanent application of press fasteners to garments requires constant vigilance on the part of all concerned if press fastener failures are to be prevented.

It is the manufacturers responsibility to supply products that are engineered to strictly controlled standards that ensures reliability.

28

Material Types

Steel must not be used, as it will rust. If nickel clips are likely to be in prolonged and direct contact with the skin they must comply with the European Nickel Directive (S.I.No.1668The Dangerous Substances and Preparations (Nickel) (Safety) Regulations 2000).

This limits the amount of nickel release for the button. The Directive stipulates than when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, and following a period of two years normal wear (as specified in EN 12472: 1998/ BS EN 1811: 1999), the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed 0.5 micrograms/square cm/week.
0.5

It is the garment makers responsibility to ensure that the application process is vigilantly controlled throughout production.

Exposed areas must be smooth and free from sharp edges.

Design of garment.

Press fasteners must never be applied across seams or other areas where thickness varies. This can result in inadequate clenching or uneven application of the fastener.

Using different lengths on the same garment is not advisable.

Post studs must not be used on knitted fabrics.

Selection of Fastener.

The initial assessment must be carried out by the garment maker in conjunction with the press fastener supplier. It is recommended that a press fastener data sheet be completed at this stage.

All metal fasteners must be brass to prevent rusting. For ring and prong fasteners, the brass must be manufactured from 70% Copper and 30% Zinc with a minimum strip of 0.5mm and a maximum hardness of 105VHN. This will minimize the risk of stress corrosion through prolonged exposure to ammonia from baby urine.
70%30%0.5mm 105VHN

29

Whatever the fastener being used, it is vital that the length of the post/ prong be accurately matched to the thickest fabric to which it is being applied. The depth of machine clenching should be set to match the thickness.

It is recommended that 15 ligne is the minimum size of press fastener that should be used.
15L

Studs must be applied to single ply fabric and must be reinforced with double fabric or interlining.

Some thin fabrics may need a stud washer for extra security.

The handling and attachment of press fasteners must be closely controlled to prevent failures in use. The use of statistical process control can lead to increased confidence levels, some companys recommend the use of process capability evaluations and control charts.

Fabric used to support a press fastener must meet the tear strength specified.

Stud Buttons Stud buttons with the arrowhead prong are the only type acceptable.

Applications of Fasteners to wash -down Garments. Press fasteners/stud buttons must be applied to the garment after washing.

It is possible for the press fasteners /studs buttons on denim garments to corrode- crack, and subsequently fall off the garment, when press fasteners have been applied prior to washing down. This is the result of chemicals used in the wash being trapped and then not adequately neutralized, leading to corrosion.

Factory Considerations The following are supplementary points representing good factory practice:

Any fasteners, which have been removed from garments, must never be re-used.

30

Correct fastener application relies heavily upon the satisfactory functioning of the machinery, including dyes and vital routine machine Maintenance. Fastener manufacturers usually provide a good technical back -up service, which includes regular visits to the manufacturing unit.

Attachment Of Fastener Garment makers must NOT use attaching machines operated by DIRECT foot applied pressure unless they incorporate a non-return ratchet mechanism designed to ensure that the foot pedal travels through the full of the machine, thus ensuring correct applied pressure.

The use of semi-automatic machinery, powered electrically or by compressed air, is preferable. However machines powered by compressed air must be fitted with a pressure guide valve, which will stop the machine from operating if the airline pressure falls below the pre-set level necessary for satisfactory application.

The back of the post attachments must be flat. A rounded appearance indicates insufficient clenching pressure.

The fabric must be firmly clamped so that is IMPOSSIBLE to insert a thin object, such as a fingernail, between the fabric and the metal fastener.

It is essential that all press fasteners for each garment are opened and closed to test their function.

All garments with closed feet must be turned inside out to ensure that no loose press fastener parts, which could be a hazard to the wearer, have fallen inside the garment.

As part of good practice and quality assurance the garment maker must measure and record the pinch setting on all the machines every morning and afternoon. The supplier must use a digital vernier measuring device. If any variation from the measurement recommended by the press fastener supplier exists the machinery must be re-set to the correct setting immediately.

Zip Fasteners All zips must meet with Visage performance standards and comply with British Standard BS3084: 1992.

31

All colourants/lacquers/coatings where used, must comply with Toy Safety Standards BS EN 71: Part 3: 1995 concerning Migration of Toxic Elements.

If nickel zips are likely to be in prolonged and direct contact with the skin they must comply with the European Nickel Directive (S.I. No.1668 The Dangerous Substances Preparations (Nickel) (Safety) Regulations 2000).

This limits the amount of nickel content and nickel release in the metal. The Directive stipulates that when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, and following a period of years normal wear (as specified in EN12472: 19998/BSEN1811:1999), the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed 0.5 micrograms/square cm/week.
0.5

It is recommended that all boys trousers with a zip fly have a minimum 2cm wide guard. All garments with metal zips must have a zip guard to prevent skin irritation.

Zips are not acceptable in Boys Jeans/Trousers up to Age 3 years.


/

Material Types Claw type stops are not acceptable. To prevent skin irritation D top stops, injection moulded, or welded top stops, must be used. Zip with plastic teeth may reduce severity of an injury if entrapment does occur and are therefore preferable to zips with metal teeth.
D

Vinyl P.U. zip pulls must be assessed for the following:

Inherent strength suitable for application and to withstand a 90N pull.


90N

No detachable parts that could be swallowed or cause choking.

Attachment The top and bottom of a zip must be secured so the slider cannot be removed.

The top stop on open-ended zips must have a top cob or other means to retain slider.

Care must be taken to ensure no cut coil -end protrudes above the top stop, as this can cause skin irritation.

Zips at center front neck must start 1cm from top of garment.
1

32

Elastics Fully enclosed elastic Elastic, where used, must not restrict blood circulation or otherwise risk causing discomfort or mark the skin of the child. Both relaxed and extended elastic measurements must be included on the size chart.

Elastic not enclosed in a channel must have a soft-brushed surface if worn next to the skin.
Shirring

For a single or a multi-needle application, the stitches must be secured at the cut-off edge by lockstitch or bar tack to prevent stitches running back, which could cause entanglement and possible strangulation.

Design Aspects General When designing garments with cords, bows, or ribbons, care should be taken to avoid potential hazards.

Bows & Cords - Age 2-8yrs


-28 On Hoods

Mock cords are not allowed on hoods and up to and including 3yrs.

Mock cords are allowed on hoods from 4yrs and above.

The cord must be not longer than 8cms, must be securely fixed in a hood by a bar tack close to the cord opening and must not be able to be pulled to reduce the hood circumference in any way.
8

Measurement of cord length All measurements shall be made with cords or loops in a relaxed state.

Measurement of cords with one free end 2 1

33
3

Key 1 Cord straight, one free end. 2 Garment 3 Length of cord in mm Measurement of cord with no free ends

1 3 2

5 4 Key

1
2 3 4 5 NOTE

Toggle
Cord no free end Garment Length of hoop (in mm) Fixed ends both secured inside garment the loop circumference is twice the flat length.

At the Waistband

Mock cords at the waistband are allowed and must be no longer than a maximum of 14cm.
14

Functional cords are permitted at the waistband from 4yrs and above and must not be longer than 14cm when the waist of the garment is flat and not gathered, this must always have bar tack secured at center back.
14

34

At the Hem of Jackets Functional cords are permitted at the centre front hem and must not be any longer than 8cm when the hem of the jacket is flat and not gathered. Side or back cords on any jacket are not permitted. These cords could be a product safety issue due to the cords hanging behind the child and get caught in doors of moving vehicles when exiting.

Garments with hood cords must comply with Hood Cord Regulations 1976. Hood or neck draw - through cords must not be used on any childs garments.
1976

HOODS Garments with the hood cords must comply with the Hood Cord Regulations 1976.
1976

Hood or neck draw - through cords must not be used on any childrens garments.

Fabric must not present a risk or a hazard to the wearer when forming part of a hood. The fabric must not be impermeable to air as this could cause suffocation.

Motifs, Embroideries and Badges All motifs, embroideries, and badges must meet Visage Performance Standards for Trimmings.
Direct Embroideries / Appliqus/

A non-woven backing fabric* is usually clamped behind the garment fabric for improved stability. After embroidery the backing fabric is removed. However, it is often impossible to remove every piece of backing. Therefore some embroidery may need to be bagged out if worn next to skin to avoid skin irritation.

(*The handle of backing must be agreed with Buyer prior to production. Either the softest possible backing or water -soluble backing should be used.)

Embroidery thread must conform to the fabric performance standard relating to its product type and garment care instructions, and be as soft as possible if worn next to the skin.

Sufficient locking of stitching must be used at the start / finish to prevent embroidery unraveling or breaking down when trimmed. Knots or thread ends on the back of the embroidery must not be rough or abrasive.

35

Stitched On Motifs / Badges These must be attached with lockstitch, ensuring the finish is back tacked, to prevent unraveling during wash and wear.

NECK STRETCH ALL NECK OPENINGS MUST ACHIEVE A MINIMUM NECK STRETCH OF 56CM ON ALL GARMENTS UP TO 7 / 8 YRS AND 60CM OVER 7/8 YRS.
567/8607/8

The seams must not crack or break on achieving this measurement and the neck must return to its original shape without sign of distortion.

Braid / tape labels used on the inside of necklines must not have heat seal cut edges. These could cause abrasion or skin irritation.
/

Stitching, Hems and Neck Finishes Joins, where permitted, must be neat and secure.

For twin-needle cover-seaming , the finishing end must be finished by one of the following methods to prevent the end unraveling, which could cause entanglement and possible strangulation.

Lock stitch reinforce Bar tack Trapped within the seam Stitch locking (available on some machines) For decorative lustre thread, it is advisable to use a viscose / rayon lustre rather than nylon. Monofilament thread must not be used on any part of the garment or component / trim due to abrasive and unbreakable inherent properties which could cause injury or entrapment.
/

Braid / tape labels used on the inside of necklines must not have heat sealed cut edges. These could cause abrasion or skin irritation.

36

Textile Accessories The component safety requirements contained else where within this manual (for example buttons, clips, zips etc.) is generally equally applicable to accessories that use these components.

In addition, the sections on flammability and toxicity are usually transferable to the accessories product area.

Metal Content Metal contamination is taken very seriously by Visage, resulting in heavy fines and the possibility of customer injury cannot be emphasized enough.
Managing compliance to the directive & due diligence.

Visage and its suppliers, within their given deadlines, need to position our selves so that we can demonstrate clear conformance to the legislation.

The following can easily be implemented within our current procedural systems.

Assigned responsibility at Visage & the supplier. Assess the risk of the individual items for prolonged & direct contact with the skin. This should be captured at the pre-production stage.
/

The supplier should consider this prior to a pre-production meeting.

If the answer is yes then further investigation is imperative, as detailed below.

We should, by exception, record items that do come into direct & prolonged contact with the skin on the pre-production documentation. Screening for nickel release using the Elusion QC test will determine the presence of nickel. If the test indicates the presence of nickel the full Elusion Reference Method test should be undertaken to determine which component part is responsible for the failure.
/

Test sampling should be undertaken on a bulk order. The sampling plan should comprise of both in-house screening by the supplier & external testing a suggested frequency of sampling is as follows (based upon BS6001at 0.65%)

For of the 1000 pieces, 5 pieces are to be checked in-house using the non-destructive screening kits. Any significant events should be recorded along with the check details (Failures may lead to a change in source).
10005

37

If a failure is recorded, then double the number should be checked with the screening kits & offending items be sent for confirmatory using BS EN 1811:1999 at a recognised test house. Any confirmed failures should result in rejection.

The sampling level may be reduced by 10% to 20% per inspection if all articles pass.
10%-20%

For every 500 samples checked in house as above, 2 should be sent to a recognised test house for assessment to BS EN 1811:1999 after BS 12472.
5002

For those items that will come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin, a detailed specification should be sought from the supplier. A letter of conformance should also be sought, but must be accompanied by suitable test documentation.

A review of the system is required with the local Trading Standards Officer and will be routinely reviewed internally.

Lab tests All goods must be tested by ITS / SGS or other reputable laboratories for: ITS/SGS

1. Fabric Composition.

2. Dimensional stability to washing.

3. Colour fastness to washing.

4. Colour fastness to wet rub.

5. Colour fastness to dry rub.

Any additional requirements for customers will be advised.

38

You might also like