Presented by

T. Srivani,
Asst. Prof., FP
 YARN
DEFINITION:
The word yarn or thread is used in common parlance to cover all
the linear textile structures. Yarns can be either “single” or
“folded”.

“A yarn is an assemblage of fibres or filaments having a

substantial length and relatively small cross section, with or
without twist, being the end product of a spinning and
winding process”

Assemblies of fibres or filaments which are intermediate products

in a spinning process are given special names such as
Sliver, roving, bave, top or tow, depending upon the process
and the particular intermediate stage.
 CLASSIFICATION OF YARNS

YARNS

SINGLE YARNS ASSEMBLED YARNS FOLDED YARNS

FANCY YARNS
FANCY YARNS

SPUN YARNS FILAMENT YARNS

ROTOR YARNS FLAT FILAMENT YARNS

RING YARNS TEXTURED FILAMENT YARNS

WORSTED YARNS BICOMPONENT TAPE OR SPLIT FILM YARNS

SEMI-WORSTED YARNS

WOOLLEN YARNS
Yarn may be any of the following

• Number of fibers twisted together

• Number of filaments without twist

• Number of filaments twisted with more/less twist

• Single filament

• One or more strips cut by length of a sheet of material of

natural/ synthetic or any polymer
TERMS

SPUN YARNS are made by mechanical assembly and twisting together

(spinning) of Staple fibres such as cotton, flax,
wool,
spun and noil silk, broken or cut man-made fibres

FILAMENT YARNS are made by the assembly of continuous filaments,

made from silk or man-made fibres

A MULTI FILAMENT YARN is a filament yarn made from multiple

filaments, assembled with or without twist.

A MONO FILAMENT YARN consists of only a single continuous filament

from man-made source.
Two or more yarns which are wound side by side on to same package,
but without twisting around each other, are called ASSEMBLED
YARNS.

FOLDED OR PLIED YARNS are yarns made by twisting together

Two or more single (and/or folded) yarns of the same or different types.
Ex: 2 Ply (two singles)

CORDS OR CABLED YARNS are yarns made by twisting together

Two or more ply or folded yarns of the same or different types.
Ex: 2,3 Ply Cord
Twist Direction
Twists or turns per inch
Twist Factor (K)
Spun & Filament yarns
Properties of Spun, Filament and Combination Yarns:

100%Spun Yarns: Warmth, Softness, Light Weight

Ideal for T-Shirts, Sweaters and
Blankets

100%Filament Yarns: Smoother, Finer and Lustrous

Ideal for linings

Combination of spun and filament Yarns: Durable,

Easy care, Comfortable
Suitable for more applications
Twist
• The purpose of twist is to hold the staple
fibers together
• The twist could be used in different ways to
embed different qualities to the yarn
• A yarn that is twist balanced will not tend to
curl
• The direction of twist is also important for
further designing as this can be used well by
designers
Yarn twist parameters:

Amount of twist is designated as TPI –turns per inch, which

Affects appearance and durability of the yarns.

Spun yarn: Low twist Soft twist yarns flexible

(2 to 12 tpi) ex: Knitting fluffier
soft

High Twist Hard twist yarns smooth

(20 to 30 tpi) ex: weaving firm
stronger

Filament yarns: Usually low twist Pebbly and harsh surface

(1/2 to 1 tpi) Crepe fil. with crepe twist
Twist Direction
Twist can be inserted in either
of two directions.

S-Twist: Spirals run upward

to the left (clock wise)

Z-Twist: Spirals run upward

to the right (anti clock wise)

Combination of S and Z twist:

to produce crepe fabrics
The majority of the single yarns are twisted in Z direction

S-twist is considered as a reverse twist by the spinner

Direction of twist has no effect on single yarns

Normally the folding twist is in the opposite direction

to that of the single yarns.

Balanced twist is when the folding twist is approximately

equal and opposite to the singles
Twist factor
The angle of twist is the factor
that determines how
the yarn will behave.

Yarns with a low twist level have a lower angle of

twist, and will be relatively soft, bulky yarns

Yarns with higher twist angles will be strong, lean

and hard yarns

Over twisted yarns will have very high twist angles;

They will be very hard, weaker and snarl easily
Typical twist factors:

Short staple end use Tex twist factor

Doubling weft 2900-3200

Ring weft 3200-3500
Ring warp 3800-4300
Voile 4900-5300
Crepe 5700-7700
Rotor 3700-4700
Twist factor

Tan ө = Пd
l
l= 1 /turns per unit length

d= /¯yarn tex

Therefore, tan ө = turns per unit length X /¯yarn tex

Turns per unit length = K/ /¯tex

Twist factor = turns per inch / /¯cotton count

Twist and Handle
• A soft twisted yarn will give a
fuzzy texture.

• A high twisted yarn will

increase the surface roughness
and increase the grainy
texture according to the
bulkiness.

• The direction of twist and

when they are combined may
give interesting effects.
Twist and Bulkiness
• The bulkier the yarn, lesser the twist.
• Finer the yarn higher the twist.
• Bulkier yarn needs lesser twist and so it has
lesser strength.
• Finer yarn has more twists and strong.
• But when the twist is increased after
particular point the strength is reduced due
to the breakage of the fibers.
Blends / Mixtures
• A blend is a combination of two materials at
fiber stage.
• A mix is two materials put together at a
later stage as strands.
• The texture we get is different from each of
them.
• The design value of these are high.
 Need
• The need for blends or mixes are.
– Cost.
– Different quality that each fiber offers.
– More effective usage of the materials.
– The necessity of different and in between
qualities and both the qualities.
 Design Values
• The design values of such blended and
mixed yarn can be explored to give an
innovative look to the textile
• More innovative processes can be explored
• The design can happen from yarn stage.
Fancy Yarns
• Fancy yarns are explorations of the prior
said attributes such as
• Twist
• Bulkiness
• Color
• Material
– Blends and Mixes
– Material(conventional/non-conventional)
Varieties
• Boucle
• Loop
• Gimp
• Nep
• Chenille
• Corkscrew
• Core spun
• Metallic
Physical properties and performance characteristics
of different yarn types:

Yarn type General yarn properties

Staple yarns Excellent Handle

Good covering power
• Carded cotton Good comfort rating
• Combed cotton Reasonable strength
• Woollen Reasonable uniformity
• Worsted
• Linen
Yarn type General yarn properties

Continuous filament yarns Excellent uniformity

Excellent strength
•Natural Can be very fine
•Non-synthetic Fair handle
•Synthetic Poor covering power

High bulk yarns

Light weight
• Staple Good covering power
• Continulous filament Good loftiness and fullness
Stretch yarns
High stetchability
Continuous filament Good handle
Covering power
Special end use:

•Tyre cord Purely functional

•Rubber Designed to satisfy a specific-
•Core yarn set of conditions
•Cabled
•Split film yarn

Novelty yarns:
Excellent decorative features
•Fancy yarns
•Metallic
Variables in yarn production

Type of fibre or filament

Dimensional and physical characteristics of the fibre/filament
Mechanical properties of the fibre / filament
General properties
Yarn production systems
Components of the yarn and percentages
Linear density and level of twist
Yarn construction
Texturisation and method of texturisation