Sewing Class Part 2

Stitches and Buttons

Todays Objectives
We

will review basic hand stitches and practice a 2-3 inch sample on fabric swatches will review types of buttons and practice the proper technique for sewing to fabric

We

Todays Sewing Tools

Backstitch

Backstitch is the strongest hand stitch and is used to imitate machine stitches. Work backstitch from right to left. Begin with a couple of stitches worked on the spot, then take a stitch and a space. Take the needle back over the space and bring it out the same distance in front of the thread. Continue to the end of the seam. Fasten off with a couple of stitches on the spot

Catchstitch
A hemming stitch used for bulky fabrics or curved areas. Work from right to left. Fasten the thread to the edge of the folded fabric with a few
backstitches.

Make a diagonal stitch from right to left, then, with the

needle pointing to the left, make a small stitch in the fabric from right to left.

Bring the needle out and make a diagonal stitch from right
to left. Do not pull the thread too tight.

The Catch Stitch up Close

Hemming Stitch

Work from right to left with a single thread. Fasten the thread with a knot inside the hem. Bring the needle out of the hem and pick up a few threads of flat fabric just above the folded edge. Make the same stitch through the folded fabric. Work your way along the hem making the stitches as invisible as possible on the right side.

The Hem Stitch Up Close

Herringbone Stitch

This stitch neatens a single hem and catches it to the fabric at the same time. Work from left to right. Secure the thread with a few backstitches.
Make a long diagonal stitch from left to right across the raw edge and back through the flat fabric, about 0.25" (6mm) from the hem edge. With the needle pointing to the left, make a small stitch in the fabric from right to left. Bring the needle out and make another long diagonal stitch from left to right so that the threads cross. The stitches should be evenly spaced and the same size.

The Herringbone Stitch Up Close

Overcast Stitch

Overcasting (a/k/a oversewing) is the best way to neaten a raw edge by hand to prevent the fabric from fraying. Relate the length of the stitch to the fabric and how badly it will fray.
Begin with a few backstitches. Make diagonal stitches over the raw edge, spacing them equally and the same length. Be careful not to pull the stitches too tight

The Overcast Stitch Up Close

Running Stitch

This stitch is used for seams and for gathering. Fasten the thread with a few backstitches and work small stitches by passing the needle over and under a few fabric threads and pulling through the fabric. Keep the stitches and spaces as even as possible.

Slipstitch

This stitch is used for holding a folded edge to a flat piece of fabric. Work from right to left with a single thread fastened with a knot hidden inside the hem. Bring the needle out through the folded edge, pick up a few threads of fabric and then work through the fold again. Slide the needle along, come out of the fold to make the next stitch.

The Slip Stitch Up Close

Tacking Stitch: (Basting)

This is used to hold fabric in position while it is being permanently stitched. Work with single or double thread, knotted at the end, and make evenly spaced stitches in and out of the fabric. End a line of tacking with 1 backstitch. To release tacking stitches, cut off the knot and pull out the thread.

How to Sew a Button

Step by Step Instructions

Types of Buttons

Which come in many shapes, colors and varieties!

Other Fabric Fasteners

Thread the Needle

If you like, you can double the thread to make this job quicker or use beeswax Simply pull it through the needle so that there is an equal length of thread extending from both sides.

Tie a knot at the end of the thread.

One way to tie a knot is to wrap the thread around your finger as shown,roll the thread between your fingers, and pull it tight. If you doubled the thread, tie the ends together. Leave a long tail of thread, whether you are doubling the thread or using a single thread to sew the button

Position the button.

Line the button up with the other buttons on the garment.

Push the needle through

Push the threaded needle up through the fabric and through one hole in the button. Pull the thread all the way through on each stitch.

Place a pin under the center of the button

Hold it there until the next stitch helps keep it in place. When the pin is withdrawn later, it will allow the slack necessary to create a "shank" so that there will be space between behind the button for the material that will need to go there when the garment is buttoned.

Bring the needle up through the fabric and button.

Bring the needle up through the first hole (for a 2-hole button) or a new hole (for a 4-hole button) and pull the thread all the way through the fabric

Push the needle through the next hole

Still holding the pin in place, pull the thread all the way through. Once that is done, the pin will be kept in place by the thread. In this photo, the button was lifted up to show what's going where, but it's best to hold the button in place so it does not move.

Repeat the sewing process

Repeat the sewing process enough times to make sure the button is securely in place. On 4-hole buttons, make sure that the stitches have been made evenly, so that all four holes are equally used.

Come up between the fabric and the button.

On the last stitch, push the needle through the material, but not through a hole in the button.

Back down through the material

Push the needle back down through the material.

Wrap the thread around the "shank".

Wrap the thread six times around the thread between the button and the material to reinforce the shank you have created.

Go between the button and material

Pull the thread out into the area between button and material. Remove the pin and pull up the button a little.

Cut off the excess

Trim the excess thread

Back stitch to tie off the thread

Make three or fourbackstitches to secure the thread

Button with stitching in an X.

On a 4-hole button choose the one diagonal to the first hole if you want the threads to cross in an "X" formation.

Button with parallel thread pattern

If you want two parallel lines of thread showing, choose the next hole that is opposite the first

The Hand Worked Buttonhole

Buttonhole a/k/a Blanket Stitch

Some times called the Blanket stitch. Both formed in the same way. The Difference?
Blanket stitch spikes spaced apart Buttonhole stitch spikes closer together

Phase I
1. Bring the needle out at the edge of the fabric 2. Put the needle down into the fabric

3. Bring the needle out through the background fabric and take thread under the needle. Make sure the needle is kept vertical to the edge of your shape.

Phase II
4. Pull the thread through the fabric & make sure the thread being pulled is level with the fabric. This assures in a continuous flat straight stitch formation. 5. Now bring the needle down at the X and out at the O. Continue the above steps the produce a row of Buttonhole stitch.

Looks Like This

And This

Turning a sharp corner or small circular shape.

A catching down technique

1. Make a stitch at the corner at an angle.

2. Take the needle through to the back of the fabric on the right hand side of the loop.

Continued.
3. Pull thread through so the front sits flat.

4. On the back of the fabric take the needle under last stitch made keeping thread on the back of the fabric.

Continued
5. Now take the needle up through the fabric and out where shown above. 6. Then keep stitching the Buttonhole stitching as normal.

VOILA !!!!

Final Project
Make a 1 slit in your fabric swatch Make 2 hand worked holes 2 apart Line up your fabric edges Sew 2 shank buttons 1 from the edge of the opposite side of fabric

The Goal?
To measure & sew both buttons precisely so that all edges of fabric are aligned once you insert buttons into the button hole

Did we meet our objectives?

Did

we review and practice basic hand stitches and discuss their uses?
we review the types of buttons and practice the proper technique for sewing them?

Did

Next Class 2/13/10 References

http://www.wikihow.com/Sew-a-Button Video Clips http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nzs qQzRaqo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gg0p fdIRBgw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrSs_ DiJ-ZA