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TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM

A statistical process control tool designed to continually improve both product quality and process consistency throughout the garment assembly process, whereby key personnel are alerted to issues at the point of manufacture thereby ensuring an effective and timely problemsolving approach which is aligned to the collation of all trend analysis data
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Contents
Chapter Page

Governance Statement Traffic Light System Flow Chart Operational Standards and Specifications RFT Traffic Light Alert System Standardized Fault Codes

3 4-6 7 8-9 10

Garment Measurement & End line inspection


QC Auditing RFT Meetings RFT System Audit Team Structure Appendices

11
12 13 14 15-17 18-29

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Governance

The following Traffic Light System is a statistical process control tool designed to improve product quality and process consistency.

All procedures, processes, tables and appendices are the responsibility of the VSP Global QA Right First Time Team.
None of the above mentioned contents are to be amended or deleted without the prior knowledge and approval of the Global QA team. This document need not be considered as mandatory. Vendors, however, who are using it as a reference, must comply with all of the basic fundamentals to be considered compliant. (see appendix 1) Updated formats will be published and clearly mark with a Date of Issue and Version Number. Please contact your Regional QA representative on any points of clarity.

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TLS Flow Chart (Green)


If Traffic Light is Green at point of visit.

(EXAMPLE 1)

QM checks randomly 10 pieces but 100% of the first bundle if rejection rate was above 10%

Workstatio n in previous days top 3?

QM checks randomly or 5 pieces

Sewing Line starts & QM commences audit regime

QM changes Traffic Light to RED and advise Supervisor. Supervisor stops Line and resolves problem. No. of faulty garments determined

QM changes Traffic Light to

YELLOW and
advise Supervisor. Supervisor holds bundle & requests repair.

Traffic Light remains GREEN.

QM update DILI report and moves to next workstation

DILI = Daily In-line Inspection Report

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TLS Flow Chart (Yellow)


If Traffic Light is Yellow at point of visit.

(EXAMPLE 2)
QM checks randomly 10 pieces but 100% of the first bundle if rejection rate was above 10%

Workstatio n in previous days top 3?

QM checks randomly or 5 pieces

Sewing Line starts & QM commences audit regime

QM changes Traffic Light to RED and advise Supervisor. Supervisor stops Line and resolves the problem. No. of faulty garments determined

QM changes Traffic Light to RED and advise Supervisor. Supervisor stops Line and resolves the problem.

QM changes Traffic Light to GREEN.

QM update DILI report and moves to next workstation

DILI = Daily In-line Inspection Report

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TLS Flow Chart (Red)


If Traffic Light is Red at point of visit.

(EXAMPLE 3) See Traffic Light Alert System on Page 9

Sewing Line is already stopped when QM commences audit regime

QM keeps Traffic Light to RED and informs Supervisor , Technician, Production Manager & Quality Supervisor to resolve the problem

No. of faulty garments is determined

QM keeps Traffic Light to RED and informs Supervisor , Technician, Production Manager & Quality Supervisor to resolve the problem

QM update DILI report and moves to next workstation

QM changes Traffic Light to YELLOW. And re-check in half on the time than for green.

QM update DILI report and moves to next workstation

Upon request from problem solving entity No. of faulty garments is determined

QM update DILI report and moves to next workstation

Upon request from problem solving entity No. of faulty garments is determined

QM keeps Traffic Light to RED and informs Factory Manager and Quality Manager who stop the operation and resolves problem.

No. of faulty garments is determined

QM keeps Traffic Light to RED and informs Factory Manager and Quality Manager who stop the operation and resolves problem.

QM keeps Traffic Light to YELLOW. (Refer to previous page for following action)

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Operational Standards and Specifications


The actual physical standard representing the work content of that particular workstation and the associated specification needed to achieve that standard.

Operation Specification (see appendix 2)

Mentions the details of an operation: The purpose of the operation. All possible critical quality failures, their downstream effects on the product conformity and a proven mechanism to detect and prevent them. Operation key measurements, guide settings, trim off allowance, needle size/type, stitches per inch, thread type, and any other relevant specification. Prepared by the technician, reviewed and agreed by team leader and operator. Constantly visible and at operator eye level.

Sewing Operation Standard


Prepared by operator and approved by technician, team leader, mechanic and QM. Used to highlight stitch density, balance, SPI, Sewing margin (does not have to be the full length of that operation). Using correct bulk raw material. Placed on the Operation Specification Sheet.

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Traffic Light Alert System


The procedure that needs to be adopted to enable the flagging of quality issues during the sewing process, allowing the targeted and prompt action by the most appropriate personnel.

The traffic light colors are based on a Red-Yellow-Green alert procedure representing respectively High, Medium and Low risk conditions.

FAULTS FOUND 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 2 1 0 1 0 0 0

COLOUR CODE YELLOW GREEN YELLOW GREEN YELLOW RED YELLOW YELLOW GREEN RED RED YELLOW YELLOW YELLOW YELLOW GREEN

A sewing line always starts a new style with yellow and moves to either red or green but never directly between red and green. After a Red traffic light, two successive QM audits must be clear before the TLS changes back to Green on it next visit. At a change of shift where a common WIP system is not in operation the TLS flag at the workstation should follow the color from the previous shift. The QM to operator ratio should not be greater than 1:25 and every workstation must be audited within a 2hr time period minimum. The Standard Minute Value (SMV) of different style should have a direct impact on the audit frequency (e.g. the operation of a style with low SMV should be audited more often than a style with high SMV). Workstations on yellow would be expected to be visited more often (in half the time taken to visit a green workstation but no later that one hour). Visiting a critical operation more often is not mandatory unless it was a workstation with a yellow traffic light.

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Traffic Light Alert System


The procedure that needs to be adopted to enable the flagging of quality issues during the sewing process, allowing the targeted and prompt action by the most appropriate personnel.

The level of alert escalates depending on the number of rejected bundles being detected at that workstation:

1rst rejected bundle (red) - The QM informs the Line Supervisor. 2nd rejected bundle(red) - The QM informs the Production Manager, Technician and Quality Supervisor. 3rd rejected bundle (red) The QM informs the Factory Manager and Quality Manager.

A bundle is considered rejected in either of the following cases:


A specific bundle containing 2 or more faulty garment. A specific bundle containing at least 1 faulty garment and following a bundle that itself containing at least 1 faulty garment.

A Red traffic Light (High risk) will, as a consequence, interrupt the production flow which will only resume after a further QM audit & the TL colour changing to Yellow (Medium risk). This 2nd audit will be requested by the problem solving person or team once they have satisfactorily rectified the initial problem. The QM should inspect a minimum of 5 garment panels at each visit. (for fixed bundle processes). If there is no fixed bundle system in operation the QM must check a minimum of 5 garments per visit moving to the next adjacent workstation to complete this number if necessary. A minimum of 10 panels must be checked if that workstation is in the previous days top 3 highest recorded faults per operation. All TLS paperwork Traffic Light Chart (see appendix 3) / Inline Inspection Report (see appendix 4) and the updating of the TLS flag must be completed before the QM leaves the workstation.

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Standardized Fault Codes


The coding system used to classify faults on garments or panels through the sewing, finishing and packing process.

VSP's standardized fault codes (see appendix 5) should be used in order that regional and global analysis of faults can be collated. Fault codes should not be amended or modified in any way without the prior consent and approval of the Global QA RFT Team Advice should be sought from the regional RFT representative if, at any time the fault codes require amendment or updating.

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Garment Measurement & End line inspection


Garment Measurement is the process carried out to determine that garment sizing meets specification throughout the duration of the manufacturing process.

Must be a graphical plot in order to show trend analysis as well as process stability and capability. For a minimum 50 units/day per style and size. Days of the week and any color change must be clearly identified on the graph (no need for separate graph). Must be able to analyze to a style specific size and key measurements. This report (see appendix 6) is carried out by the End-Line inspector and passed to the QC Manager at the end of the shift for review at the following morning meeting. The Weekly measurement report (see appendix 6) allows the management to see at a glance how effective we have been in solving quality issues. The daily measurement information is entered into an Excel spreadsheet. This data is then used to generate a deviation chart. It is important to emphasize that key information can be obtained through the analysis of this document. Trends in deviation from tolerance can be detected and corrected. Being within tolerance is not enough. The End-Line daily 100% inspection quality report (see appendix 7) for each production line, gives detailed information about any rejection from the end-line inspection. The end-line examiner should carry out 100% inspection and use the 5 bar mark to record the number of defects into the relevant box (fault type). At the end of each shift the end-line examiner will calculate the total defects and the total faults as well as the total pieces of garments rejected. At this stage the three highest rejected operations will be recorded which the in-line QM is required to carry out a more detailed check i.e. 20% the following day. This sheet needs to be passed to the QC Manager at the end of the day so that it can be analyzed at the following morning meeting.

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QC Auditing
The daily end of line QC audits to determine performance of product before dispatching to the warehouse.

This report (see appendix 8) is completed by the factory QC following the daily audit. The garments being audited are those considered as acceptable by the end-line examiner. Carried out to Warnaco AQL requirement. Compile summary of the 3 highest fault / reject by lines/examiners per day/shift. Submit report to daily RFT meeting.

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RFT Meetings
The formal meetings that take place on a regular basis to report quality issue and gain confirmation of the corrective action taken.

A daily RFT meeting must take place for each shift to ensure that the top 3 issues from that previous shift and their established root cause are dully analyzed and that the necessary actions are taken promptly. Daily RFT meeting must be co-chaired by the Quality Supervisor as well as Production Supervisor and attended by the Quality Monitor, Line supervisor, and Technician as a minimum. Documentation to be available: RFT daily meeting report (see appendix 9) (including Inline, End line and QC auditing Top 3 highest) and Daily Garment Measurement Trend Analysis. A weekly RFT meeting must take place for each week to ensure that the top 3 issues from that previous weeks and their established root cause were dully analyzed and that the necessary actions were taken promptly. Weekly RFT meeting must be co-chaired by the Quality Manager as well as Production Manager and attended by the Quality Supervisor, Quality Monitor, Line supervisor, and Technician as a minimum. Documentation to be available: RFT weekly meeting report (see appendix 10) (including Inline, End line and QC auditing Top 3 highest from the previous week), Weekly Garment Measurement Trend Analysis and RFT weekly audit. During RFT Meeting , all the people attending the meeting should analyze the EndLine Inspection Report & Daily Inline Report. Note that faults found from Daily Inline Report should tally with the faults from Final Exam Report, however, the quantity should be at least half lower than the quantity of faults found during Daily In-line Inspection.

The Target should be that for a specific fault reject rate at In-line, we would find half of that percentage of reject at End-line and thus within the same line and for the same style.

To ensure that the 3 highest recorded operations receive extra attention, the Q.M. must carry out an audit for double the amount of goods being the Top 3 found during the 100% end-line inspection from the previous day. If the rejection rate for these operations were over 10% a 100% inspection of the first bundle is necessary.

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RFT System Audit


The procedure followed to determine that the TLS is operating as per the documented process.

Must be carried out by the Quality Systems Manager or someone of similar stature and should be a managerial level appointee. Must be carried out weekly. For the following 4 points: Do all the operators have an update Traffic Light Chart? Do all the operators have a Visual Standard & Operation Specification? Do the above standards have approved signatures: Operator, Technician, Quality Monitor, Line Leader and Mechanic. Are R.F.T meetings being held on a timely manner? RED marker to be use for a negative answer and GREEN for a positive answer (see appendix 11). RFT System Audit should be reviewed and discussed during the Weekly RFT meeting.

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Team Structure
The team roles and responsibilities necessary to run the TLS effectively as laid down by the VSP TLS document.

Quality Monitor functions as an independent line auditor with no other separate production responsibilities. Line Running : Check which workstations require increased auditing (based on previous day's Quality Meeting). Involve the 'dedicated problem solver' where bundles have been rejected (as per the no. of rejected bundles). Instruct the operator to re-check all panels/garments within bundle and repair as necessary (if bundle rejected). Report to Supervisor on concerns that previous work may have critical faults. Update the Traffic Light Chart before leaving each workstation. Update the Daily In-line Inspection Report before leaving each workstation. Attend the Daily Quality Meeting.

End Of Day/shift Record number panels inspected, rejected and % rejected per operation. Record the overall rejection rate of the team. Record the TOP 3 highest rejects by fault type and by operation. Forward the Daily Measurement Report to the QC Manager (for review at the daily quality meeting) Forward the Weekly Measurement Report to the QC Manager (for trend analysis of sizing).

Quality Supervisor chairs the daily RFT meeting and ensures that problems are investigated to establish root cause. Daily: Receive the Daily QC Audit Report from the QC auditor. Receive the Daily In-line Inspection Report from the Quality Monitor. Receive the Daily End-line Inspection Report from the End Line Examiner. Receive the Daily Measurement Report from the End Line Examiner. Chair the Daily Quality Meeting. (Production Manager, Supervisor, Technician and QM to attend). Review the previous days rejects/solutions report

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Team Structure

Quality Supervisor chairs the daily RFT meeting and ensures that problems are investigated to establish root cause.

Weekly

Receive the Weekly Summary Three Highest Rejects report from the QC Monitor (to see how effective problem solving has been). Receive the Weekly Measurement Report from the Quality Monitor (for trend analysis of sizing). Receive the Weekly Measurement Report from the RFT Manager.

Technician ensures training operator on new style, quality problem solving as minimum.

Line Start Up

Explain what is the purpose of this operation. Explain what key quality problems could be expected. Explain the impact of a faulty operation on the rest of the line and the final garment. Explain all important measurements. Highlight all Spec details (e.g. Guide settings, Trim off allowance, Needle size/type, Stitches per inch). Confirm the operational spec is correct (with operator, QM and supervisor attending). Sign Off the operation sample, attach to operation spec sheet and hang at eye level (must also be countersigned by operator, line supervisor, mechanic, and In-line QM). Attend the daily Quality Meeting. Provides solutions on the problem that Q.M. has identified and make sure that the solution has been carried out correctly and has stopped the problem from recurring.

Daily

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Team Structure

End-Line checker is responsible for checking 100% of garment after trimming, and will randomly check key measurements as a minimum.

Line Running:

Carry out 100% Inspection of garments from the line. Update the Daily End-line Inspection Report using 5 bar mark method. Measure finished garments and record details on the Measurement Report. Record number garments inspected, rejected and % rejected per Operation. Record the overall rejection rate of the Team. Record the Top 3 highest rejects by Operation. Pass the completed Daily End-line Inspection Report to the QC Manager.

End Of Day/shift

Quality System Manager under limited supervision, performs a wide variety of professional, technical, and administrative task in achieving, directing, and maintaining the Traffic Light System on site implementation.

Administratively maintains the Quality System. Establishes and maintains quality records, and all required documentation for the Traffic Light System. Maintains current revision of all documents (manuals, procedures, forms, work instructions and training manuals). Facilitates the addition, revision or deletion of documents under guidance from Warnaco HK QA Team Coordinates, trains and provides technical assistance to all departments regarding the TLS process. Conduct ongoing awareness training on requirements of the Traffic Light System: requirement of the standard, system audits, process correction, preventive actions, management responsibility and participation, measurement of processes, etc. Supervises internal audits and follows through to ensure that audit findings are documented. Attends Warnaco seminars/workshops in relation to the Warnaco TLS system and acts on any subsequent requirements.

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Appendix 1
TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM
KEY Fundamentals
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Clear and visible actual Operational Standards and Specifications . Independent Quality Monitor : Operator ratio not greater than 1:25 . RFT Traffic Light Alert System. Warnaco Standardized Fault Codes . Daily Trend analysis capability on Garment Measurement . RFT Meetings Daily & Weekly comparing major issues throughout the sewing process and highlighting corrective action taken. Clearly defined Team Structure and Roles & Responsibilities . Regular QM & System Auditing by an independent managerial level appointee.

7.
8.

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Appendix 2
Warnaco
OPERATION SPECIFICATION SHEET
STYLE : MACHINE : NEEDLE: JOB DESCRIPTION : THREADS : SEAM WIDTH: A TTACHMENTS : SPI / SP3CM : FABRIC / LACE : SAMPLE

SEAM COMPONENT : QUALITY POINTS :

MEASUREMENT SPECIFICATION

OPERAT

OR SIGNATURE: SUPERVISOR/SIG.

TECHNICIAN SIG DATE

MECHANIC

OPERATOR/SIG.

Revision No.:01

Date: 2005 - 07 - 22

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Appendix 3
TRAFFIC LIGHT CHART
NAME : STYLE : TEAM : MONTH DAYS / VISIT MONDAY TUESDAY
WEDNESDAY

OPERATION YEAR

: :

MONTH 1 2 3 3 4 5 7 8 9 10 DAYS / VISIT MONDAY TUESDAY


WEDNESDAY

10

THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY MONDAY TUESDAY


WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY MONDAY TUESDAY


WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY MONDAY TUESDAY


WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY MONDAY TUESDAY


WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY MONDAY TUESDAY


WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY MONDAY TUESDAY


WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY MONDAY TUESDAY


WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY MONDAY TUESDAY


WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY

THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY

Revision No.:01 Date:2005

- 07 - 22

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Appendix 4
DAILY -LINE IN INSPECTION REPORT DATE: TEAM: STYLE: QM: SUPERVISOR: TOP 3

NUMBER OF BUNDLES INSPECTED OPERATION OPERATOR 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12 13 INS REJ % FAULTS

TOP 3 -LINE IN OPS: 1 2 3


-07 -22 Revision 1 Jan 2009

REMARKS:

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Defect Defect FABRIC & COLOR Defect Defect Defect MEASUREMENTS PACKING & SHIPPING SEAMING & STITCHING APPEARANCE RELATED No. No. RELATED No. RELATED No. RELATED RELATED No. 601 Packing list incorrect or incomplet e Merchandise, Labels, Packing 602 list, cartons mis-matched Incorrect carton size, 603 numbering, odds not marked Incorrect packing 604 ( method / sequence)

STANDARDIZED INLINE FAULT CODES

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(throw) 308 Wavy seam, Puckered seam 309 Caught parts or Inclusion inclusion 310 Run off stitch, nonDefect ACCESSORIES RELATED No. 311 Seam slippage 501 Defective / incorrect / missing Label, Trim 312 Cracking 313 S.P.I. Off spec 314 Incorrect seam securing 315 Incorrect wire play 316 Incorrect positioning 317 Needle damages or holes 318 Uneven Gathering or Shirring 319 Cut (trimming) damages

Appendix 5

101 201 301 Burn/scorch marks, moir, Thread snags ends Holes, runs, tears, cuts, Over/under spec 401 or creases in fabric ring marks, Delimitation, creases, pleats, molding discoloration fabric stitches, Cut stitches 102 Asymmetrical or unbalanced, 202 Slubs, foreign particles, 302 Broken uneven shape flaws, dirt or oil stains (m/c or manual) 103 Uneven setback/overlap 203 Irregular feel, shape,303 Open seam thickness, repeat 104 Loose threads 204 Printing faults, Dye spots, 304 Skip/slip stitches Streaky appearance 105 Untidy/unfinished 205 Shade variation 305 Seam grinning, loop stitch 106 Mis matched checks, plaids or 306 Twisted or roped seam stripes 107 Mis-shaped parts, loose/tight 307 Uneven seam allowance molding (margin) or uneven bight

108 Mis-placed parts, wrong side

109 Marks, stains, dirt or oil stains

110 Stretched panel , wavy panel

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Appendix 6
WARNACO
LINE # STYLE # AUDITOR Devi Checks 5/8 USL 1/2 3/8 1/4 1/8 TGT 0 - 1/8 - 1/4 - 3/8 LSL - 1/2 - 5/8 Devi Checks 5/8 USL 1/2 3/8 1/4 1/8 TGT 0 - 1/8 - 1/4 - 3/8 LSL - 1/2 - 5/8 Devi Checks 5/8 USL 1/2 3/8 1/4 1/8 TGT 0 - 1/8 - 1/4 - 3/8 LSL - 1/2 - 5/8 Devi Checks 5/8 USL 1/2 3/8 1/4 1/8 TGT 0 - 1/8 - 1/4 - 3/8 LSL - 1/2 - 5/8 Devi Checks 5/8 USL 1/2 3/8 1/4 1/8 TGT 0 - 1/8 - 1/4 - 3/8 LSL - 1/2 - 5/8 Devi Checks 5/8 USL 1/2 3/8 1/4 1/8 TGT 0 - 1/8 - 1/4 - 3/8 LSL - 1/2 - 5/8 DATE COLOUR SIZE FINISHED GARMENT CRITICAL MEASUREMENT SHEET M'MENT IN

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Appendix 7
WARNACO

DAILY N D -LINE E INSPECTION REPORT DATE: LINE: STYLE: EXAMINER: SUPERVISOR:


TOTAL%

OPERATION OPERATOR

FAULTS DEFECT

TOTAL DEFECTS TOTAL REJECT GMTS


NO OF % PCSDEFECT

TOTAL GMTS

REJECTED GMTS

TTL GMTTOTAL

HIGHEST 3 OPERATIONS

EXAMINED DIRT / OIL STAIN FABRIC PRESSING MEAS. SEWING REJECT D EFECT

1st 2nd

% REJECTION Revision No.:01 Date : 2005 -07 -22

3rd

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Appendix 8
Warnaco
DAILY QC AUDIT REPORT DATE: QC:
DIRTY OIL FABRIC THREAD TOTAL TOTAL %

TEAM STYLE EXAMINER MARK STAIN FAULT SHADING END PRESS HANDLING INSPECT REJECT REJECT

TOTAL GARMENT REJECTS % GARMENT REJECTS

3 HIGHEST 1 REJECTED 2 OPERATIONS 3 Revision No.:01 D ate : 2005 -07 -22

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Appendix 9
Warnaco.Inc
R.F.T ILY DA MEETING
DATE: CHAIRMAN: ABSENT PERSON: COMMENTS:

TIME:
IN -LINE END -LINE QC AQL AUDIT HIGHESTSOLUTION 3 HIGHESTSOLUTION 3 HIGHEST 3SOLUTION TEAM STYLEOPERATIONS ACTIONOPERATIONS ACTION OPERATIONS A CTION

Revision No.:01 Date : 2005 -07 -22

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Appendix 10
Warnaco Inc
WEEKLY UMMARY S 3 HIGHEST OPERATIONS REJECTED
STYLE IN -LINE END -LINE QC AUDIT IN -LINE END -LINE QC AUDIT IN -LINE END -LINE QC AUDIT IN -LINE END -LINE QC AUDIT IN -LINE END -LINE QC AUDIT IN -LINE END -LINE QC AUDIT MON: TUE: WED: THUR: FRI: SAT: RESULTS

LINE MON TUE IN -LINE INSPECT REJECT RATE


END -LINE INSPECT REJECT RATE

WED

T HU

FRI

SAT

SUN TOTAL AVERAG

QC AUDIT REJECT RATE


Revision No.:01 Date : 2005 -07 -22

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Appendix 11
Warnaco Inc
WEEKLY .L.ST AUDIT DATE:
ITEM

AUDITOR:
LINE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

1. TRAFFIC LIGHT CHART 2. STANDARD/SPEC 3. APPROVED SIGNATURE 4. MEETINGS ELD BEING H

Mark GREEN for compliance RED for and non compliance.

COMMENTS:

Revision No.:01 Date : 2005 -07 -22

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