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Ocean Topography
Littoral Zone
Wave Formation
Wavelength Distance from one wave crest to the next Wave height The distance between trough and crest Wave period The time taken for two crests to pass a given point (remains almost constant) =V*P The wavelength, , is the product of its velocity and period.
Wave Properties
The energy source for both coastal erosion and sediment transport are the ocean waves generated by the frictional effect of the winds incident on the ocean surface (1) Kinetic Energy: The motion of the water within the wave. (2) Potential Energy: Due to the position of water above the wave trough.
Wave motion
(a)Ocean depth > wavelength - waves not affected by ocean floor (b) Ocean depth < wavelength - wave height increases and wavelength decreases The wave becomes more peaked Breakers form Breaking of waves: conversion of potential to kinetic energy Work done on the shoreline
Wave Refraction
Straight shoreline - drag exerted by the ocean floor causes waves to break parallel with the shoreline.
Longshore Currents
Rip Currents
The weight of excess water near the shore can rip an opening in the sandbar, causing water to rush seaward.
Source: NOAA
Rip Current
Tidal forces
Tides enhanced during full Moon and new Moon Sun-Moon-Earth closely aligned
Wave-cut platform Horizontal benches in the tidal zone extending from the sea cliff out into the sea
If the sea level relative to the land changes over time (becoming lower with respect to the land due to uplift), multiple wave cut platforms (terraces) result 1
2 3
http://www.rgs.edu.sg/events/geotrip/cliff.html
Erosional Features
Littoral Drift
Barrier Spit Material transported by littoral drift deposited along ridge, extending outward from a coast in an area with weak offshore currents
If the spit grows to completely block an embayment, it is called a bay barrier or baymouth bar
A lagoon is a body of water behind the barrier
Puget Sound, WA
Bay Barrier
Near Eureka, CA
Coastal Straightening
Figure 13.8
Christopherson, Elemental Geosystems, Sixth Edition Copyright 2010 Pearson Education, Inc.
Frost Island, WA
A tombolo occurs when sediment deposits connect the shoreline with an offshore sea stack or island
Barrier Islands
Chandeleur Islands
Figure 13.17
Mangroves