Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Tonights topics
Fibers spun into yarns Wide variety of yarns Yarn types affect fabric properties Unique size systems exist for yarns Different equipment is required to weave or knit with different yarns Fabric finish choices affected by yarn type Garment designs influenced by yarn types Sewing threads similar to yarns
SPUN YARNS
Staple fibers twisted together Twisting creates stronger yarns Identify by untwisting yarn fibers; spun yarn pulls apart into individual short fibers
FILAMENT YARNS
Continuous filaments as they come from spinnerette/cocoon
Little or low twist
Smooth lustrous surface
Monofilament
Composed of one filament
Multifilament
Composed of many filaments Most filament yarns are multifilament
More flexible than single filament yarns of same diameter
Network Yarns
Air included in solution to make foam; air pockets pop when fiber is drawn, creating a network of interlocked fibers Industrial uses where bulk and low density are more important than high strength
Fabrics of combed yarn look better, feel smoother, are stronger, and are more expensive than fabrics of carded yarn Fabrics of combed yarn retain shape better and pill less Fabrics of carded yarn are bulkier, softer, and fuzzier.
Linen Yarns
Tow = short fibers = coarse texture = rough finish; homespuns Line = long fibers = smooth texture = fine finish; handkerchief linen
Wool Yarns
Woolen
Made of carded yarns Noils (snarls) Fuzzy Uneven diameter Bulky Wide range of fiber lengths Sizing called run and written like this: 2/50
Worsted
Made from combed yarns Smooth with little fuzz Even diameter Tightly twisted May shine Firm Size called worsted and written like this: 2/50
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUEDWjd9cLk
Woolen Yarn
Worsted Yarn
Spinning Methods
Ring (Conventional) Method
Opening
Loosens the bale, blends and cleans fibers, forms lap
Carding
Cleans and aligns fibers, forms carded sliver Drawing Makes parallel and blends fibers, forms drawn sliver May create fiber blends now
Combing
Makes parallel and removes short fibers (noils), forms combed (top) sliver (used only for longstaple cotton or worsted)
Roving
Reduces size, inserts slight twist, forms roving
Spinning
Reduces size, twists, winds the finished yarn on bobbins
Winding
Rewinds yarns from bobbins to spools or cones
www.frontierspinning.com/locations/photo_tour/tour01.shtml
MIXTURE = yarns of different generic types used within a fabric (warp is 1 type, weft is another)
YARN TWIST
Turns per inch = tpi
Soft twist
Soft, fluffy yarns; napping twist; 2 - 12 tpi
Average twist
most durable staple yarns; not used with filaments
Hard twist
high or voile twist; smooth, firm and kinky yarns; 20 30 tpi
Crepe twist
highest twist; lively yarns; require special treatment; 40-80 tpi
S twist
Z twist
Ply Yarns .
Are more expensive Require better quality fiber, more labor, special machinery Most fabrics are made of singles
Denier System
Higher the denier, larger the yarn
1 d yarn: 9000 meters of yarn weighs 1 gram 2 d yarn: 9000 meters of yarn weighs 2 grams
Sheer hosiery = 20 d Luggage = 100 d
Tex System
Spun yarns = yarn count system Spun yarns may be plied Size is expressed as 50/2 count
(or if woolen or worsted as 2/50) (2 yarns are twisted together & each yarn size is 50/1 count)
Filament yarns = denier system Filament yarns are seldom plied but when they are, the size is expressed as two-ply 80 denier
a singles yarn of comparable size would be
160 d. (80 x 2)
300-10-1/2 Z means a 300 denier multifilament yarn with 10 filaments (each 30 d.) with a half turn per inch and a Z-twist. This is NOT a plied
yarn.
MICRODENIER YARNS
Developed in late 1980s Finer filaments than silk (less than 1 denier) Extremely soft and drapable Expensive
STRETCH YARNS
POWER STRETCH COMFORT STRETCH
Designed to yield with body movement Low recovery force Fabrics look the same as nonstretch
Covered elastic
Core spun
Thermoplastic fibers made texturizing possible. Slack mercerized yarns Yarns with texture vs. texturized yarns
NOVELTY YARNS
Fancies Yarns not uniform in thickness
- seed - nub - thick and thin - spiral or corkscrew - slub - boucle
CHENILLE YARNS
Pile twisted between 2 core yarns Low abrasion resistance Prone to pilling and balding
METALLIC YARNS
Flat, ribbon-like
Tape yarns Metallics and olefins
SEWING THREADS
Main fibers: cotton, nylon, polyester, rayon Main yarn types:
Spun Filament Core spun
Always plied Highly twisted Often treated with special finishes or lubricants
THREAD FINISHES
Mercerization Soft Glace Bonded Flame resistant and heat resistant for high speed sewing Lubricated