A study of spreading must include the following considerations:

The requirement of spreading process

A)

B)
C)

Method of spreading
Quality Control of Spreads

 Shade

sorting of cloth Correct ply direction Alignment of plies Correct ply tension Elimination of fabric faults Elimination of static electricity Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting

Lays which include several colors normally require more than one roll of each color .
Done by a trained colorist &

spectrophotometer.

Same color rolls but with different shades have to be spread adjacent to each other , they are separated by a layer of interleaving paper or by a bright color paper which can be

seen easily after cutting process.

Bundling becomes easy of each tone. So that it can be send separately to sewing room. The interleaving paper also assist to provide the firm holding to fabric surface which may be slip each other if fabric are slippery in nature.

Methods of spreading which lay alternate plies in different directions can only be used for either way fabrics.

Every ply should comprise of at least the length and width of the marker plan Should have the minimum possible extra outside those measurements. The marker plan is made to fit the narrowest width. The surplus width should be distributed outside the edge of the marker plan Alignment of plies should be proper otherwise whole area of the marker plan and parts of some pattern pieces would be missing when cut.

 If

the plies are spread with too slack a tension they will lie in ridges with irregular fullness. If the plies are spread in a stretched state, they will maintain their tension while held in a lay, but will contract after cutting or during sewing and Shrink the garment parts to a smaller size than the pattern pieces.

 Fabric

faults (defects, holes, stains etc.)

may be identified by the fabric supplies.

Additional

faults may be detected during

examination of the fabric prior to spreading

The

spreading operator is responsible for

ensuring that faults do not occur in cut garment parts.

 If

defects are coming in in waste area of a spread then there is no need for any rectification. If defects are coming in marker plan & by shifting the lay defects are shifted in waste area it is more advisable instead of splicing.

Friction may increase the charge of static

electricity in the fabric containing synthetic fibers

Humidity in the cutting room may be increased to

discharge the static electricity

In some cases it may be necessary to earth the lay. Static charge may cause difficulty in laying a ply neatly on top of the others owing to either the attraction or repulsion of those plies according to how they are charged.

Cut edges of the thermoplastic fabrics such as

polyester, nylon, acrylic may fuse together .

Anti-fusion and interleaving paper is used

It contains a lubricant which lubricates the knife blade as it passes through the layers, thus reducing the increase in temperature of the blade arising from friction.

 Check the following that can affect spreading The greater the variation in either width or length, the greater will be the wastage of fabric. A tight spread will contract after cutting, resulting in smaller components. A slack spread will contain excess length & will result in over size.

Ply alignment Ply tension / Slackness Bowing Splicing

Commonly used spreading method in the industry 1. Spreading By Hand 2. Spreading Using A Traveling Machine.

 There

should not be any tension and wrinkles. Checks , crosswise stripes and other regular repeating patterns are spreaded by hand .
The

ply is normally cut with hand

shears or with a powered straight or circular knife mounted on a frame.

 Spreading

machines carry the piece of fabric from end to end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time onto the spread. The basic elements of the traveling machine consist of a frame or carriage, wheels, a fabric support, and guide collars to aid the correct unrolling of the fabric.