CRAFT RESEARCH & DOCUMENTATION

CLUSTER INITIATIVE

INTRODUCTION

Map of Himachal Pradesh Showing Kullu.

Land of the Gods -- and believed to be the earthly home of the mighty Lord Shiva, the beautiful, far-flung Himachal Pradesh has an almost palpable presence of divinity. The Vedas and the Brahmanic Scriptures, written in about 2000-3000 B.C., make a reference to the art of weaving. This cradle of mankind is a treasure trove of ancient art and craft masterpieces which gives one an insight into the grandeur of the indigenous crafts traditions.

The beautiful Kullu valley spreads out its charm on the either side of river Beas and is bounded by Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges on the both sides. Referred to as Valley of Gods or Eden of Apple, it runs north to south of Beas river. The valley has an average elevation of 1,362 metres (4,469 feet) long. A major tributary to river Beas is Sarwari-Khud, coming from another adjoining beautiful valley called Lug Valley which is on the west side of Kullu valley. In the eastern part of the district, the village of Manikaran have Sikh and Hindu temples and popular hot springs. The Hadimba Devi Temple is at Manali is north to Kullu. To the northeast of Kullu Valley, is the famous Malana Valley. Earlier it was known as Kulluth and Kulanthapitha. In old Indian texts such as Brahmand Puran, Brihatsamhita and Markandeya Puran, this area is mentioned as Kul-anta-peetha, which is translated as the end of the Habitable World.

Kullu district administers 5,503 square kilometers of areas. An official Census 2011 of Kullu states that the population of Kullu is 437,474 of which male and female are 224,320 and 213,154 respectively. Trout farming is practiced in Kullu in a great deal. Trout Farming Project Himachal Pradesh is situated at Pathlikuhl on the National Highway-21 between Kullu and Manali. Tourism is an important business in Kullu as this place is known for its temples, ancient sites, waterfalls and amazing scenic beauty. Some of the most famous attractions are Naggar, Manali, Rohtang pass, Nehru Kund, ArjunGufa, Solang valley and DhardeoDhank Cave.

DIAGNOSTIC REPORT

OUR CLUSTER

Map of Kullu showing the Areas visited

CRAFTS FOUND

After a thorough survey of the kullu area we came across crafts like Kullu Shawl weaving, pattu weaving, kullu caps, Knitted socks 58% artisans were involved in both pattu and shawl weaving. Only 42% were focused on knitting.

Some craftsmen are dedicated into the making of kullu caps

PATLIKUHL
Patlikuhl is a town in Naggar Mandal. Its name is derived from the local word kuhl meaning canal. Settled right in the middle of the road connecting Kullu and Manali. In 1990s, the government started selling the land to locals Patlikuhl is famous for trout farming and fruit market, apart from the handicrafts and handloom

AGE

GENDER

EDUCATION LEVEL

INVOLVEMENT OF ARTISAN IN CRAFT

INVOLVEMENT IN OTHER ACTIVITES

MEMBERS OF OTHER ORGANISATIONS

MONTHLY INCOME

TYPES OF DESIGN MAKING

SELLING

SKILL LEVEL

TYPE OF CRAFT INVOLVED IN

After assessing the study of the weavers done in Patlikuhl, it was found that weaving of shawl and Pattu was mainly done(65%) by women of age group 20 and above, throughout the year. Largely craftsmen have had secondary education and they are looking forward to be trained in the sector of marketing for their skilled abilities and for their humble sales. They earn less than Rs.2500 a month. Weavers do not work for any organisation but, sell their products in the local market or directly to customers. The design depends on what trend is raging in the market.

NAGGAR
Naggar is a village ,amongst the heights of Himalayas tops and lush greenery with toppings of snow. This calm and beautiful village is around 26kms from main town Kullu. The main landmarks are the famous Naggar Castle and Roerich art gallery. The beautiful Naggar castle is the symbol of its status as being the old capital of the former Kullu Kingdom about 500 years ago. The Roerich art gallery, which houses the paintings of Nicholas Roerich as well as his scriptures. The track ahead of Naggar Castle leads to Rumsu Village, famous for its old religious traditions. Jana, a sleepy village is 11kms from Naggar. The path is mostly flat with few and gradual ups and downs but the density of forest gradually reduces as one proceed to towns. Locals are engaged mostly in farming with apple, apricot and pear farms on both sides.

GENDER

The detailed analysis of survey conducted at Naggar, connotes that shawls and Pattus both are woven in this area, apart from the main occupation of agriculture. Places near Naggar castle draw a lot of tourists and hence,have showrooms of co-operative societies. However, in the villages, Pattu is chiefly woven throughout the year. Women are also engaged in knitting. People belonging to the age group of 20 to 40 years are mainly engaged in this activity; mostly women. Most of the artisans are illiterate and unskilled. Monthly income is generally around Rs 2500 per month.The craftsmen mainly work on traditional designs from their own graph book. Most of the selling is direct. The people here feel the need for better marketing as the area is a popular tourist spot.

KATRIAN

Katrain is a village located in Naggar Mandal at the distance of 2.7 km from Main town Naggar. Blessed with beautiful sceneries and sky touching mountains, its one of the major attractions for tourists. The crafts encountered here were pattu weaving, shawl weaving, and knitting.

The study of the survey done in Katrain connotes that weaving of shawls and knitting are essentially done along with agriculture in the region, throughout the year. Weaving is done by women and most of them belong to the age group of 40 years and above. Craftsmen are acquainted with primary education with skilled craft ability. Major percentages of these weavers practise for their personal purpose, earning Rs.2500-Rs.5000 per month. They work on traditional designs which are either decided by weaver itself or given by the trader. Only a small amount of the products are sold directly to customers or through cooperatives as sales are much higher in fairs and festivals due to the increase in tourism industry in Kullu.

SUMA

Suma is small village at a distance of around three kilometers from Kullu .On the basis of the survey conducted and its analysis, it is observed that shawl and pattu weaving are the main occupation of the people living here. Almost every house in the village has a khaddi/rachh (handloom) where women in their free time weave pattu and shawls. It is mainly practised by the women of age group 20 - 40 years, throughout the year. Most of the weavers have primary education and are working under cooperative society namely Him Parvat Handloom/Handicraft Weaving Society earning Rs 5000 - Rs 7500 monthly. The skilled weaver currently weave as per the market demand of contemporary designs and variations, provide to them by their respective agents/traders. Their products are generally sold in the market by the cooperative society and also in fairs and festivals. The weavers seek for more training and guidance in skill development and design innovation.

GOVERNMENT INITIATIVE

The Govt. attempts to look after the basic inputs they require like financial support that is provided in form of margin money to avail credits from banks etc and is invested in new looms and its accessories, quality raw materials.

Other way the Govt. is providing financial assistance and infrastructural facilities is by setting up process houses for bleaching, dyeing, finishing and other purposes with water and effluent treatment plants.
The help has given Primary Cooperative Socities/SHGs (Self help group) a turnover of more than 25 lakhs and National level Organisations/State Handloom Corporation a turnover of 5 crore.

Assistance has been provided by installation of Computer Aided Design system and are granted to take help of National Institute of Design (NID) and National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) who holds a special Craft Cluster Initiative documentation every year for its student. Himachal Pradesh State Handicrafts and Handloom Corp. Ltd. undertaking of state Government of Himachal Pradesh is playing a significant role in progress of State handicrafts and culture.

Around 24 awareness camps have been organized for 771 stakeholders. A total number of 150 SHGs was formed having 3,072 weavers and with credits facilities of around 14 lakhs. Around 10 designers were trained how to use vegetable dyes and infact some of the weavers have started using it. Around 47 weavers from Kullu participated in exposure visit conducted to Palampur, Dharamsala, Chandigarh, Hyderabad and Varanasi. Exhibitions and BSM activities contributed 1 crore to the total sales and 3 crore from CCIC activities conduct amongst 3650 weavers. Development of around 152 innovative designs.

Capital Financial consultancy Ltd.(CFC) building was renovated and upgraded with new technologies to form a workplace for weavers which is having a meeting room, information centre, sales counter, storeroom/yarn bank, warping machine and finishing/packaging room and can accommodate 16 handlooms

THANK YOU

CRAFTS

Necessity is the mother of all inventions

Due to the invasion of power looms and lack of outside exposure the demand for the product is on diminishing side of product life cycle. Most of the weavers are job workers who weave for master weavers and cooperative societies and receive wage, which varies based upon their skill. Co-operatives like HP Apex Weavers Society and Bhuttico provide weaving work for those who registered under the society. Apart from the Handloom and textile sector, wood and metal crafts are also prevalent in the valley. The exquisite temples, rural houses and castles display antique wooden art at the entrance, edges of the rooftops, verandahs and pillars. These carvings usually depict flowering vines, kings setting out on expedition and family deities. Under metal work, the mohras are the the most important crafts. They are believed to embody a God and are highly revered by the people. Apart from that, pulla chappal weaving and basket weaving are also major crafts.

WOVEN CRAFTS

RAW MATERIALS

PASHMINA WOOL ANGORA WOOL MERINO WOOL LOCAL WOOL

PASHMINA WOOL The traditionally used wool Found in the higher reaches of Kinnaur and Lahul - Spiti. Finest, most sought after variety of wool and is Known as Byangi in the pahari Popularly known as Pashm. The wool is taken from the under belly of the Pashmina goat.

ANGORA WOOL Procured from the local Angora breeding farms. Trimmed once in every two- three months Warm, soft and sleek to feel Originally found in white, brown, grey and black colours Extremely difficult to weave a 100% Angora Shawl

MERINO WOOL Imported from outside India Processing spinning mills at Ludhiana, Amritsar, Panipat, Kullu, etc. Soft and Warm Most of the Kullu shawls are prepared in this quality wool Can be dyed in diverse colours

Merino Sheep

LOCAL WOOL Three Varities- Desar/Deskar, Yak wool, Imboo The third variety, Desar , is the most inferior These sheep are sheared twice a year This wool is in natural colours. Yak wool is very coarse Used in blankets and flooring Imboo taken out in first shearing

DESIGNS

The motif is taken from the serpentine or zig-zag movement of insect (keeda). The motif got its name from its source of inspiration. Keeda Bel

It is inspired by the inner part of the walnut (akhrot). It is an octagon at the ridge and have four interior sections.

Akhrot

It is a very popular motif used for the borders of Kullu shawls. Palla means the side portion of the shawl which hangs down the shoulder Dari Palla It is a set of four bulbul chasam motifs, encapsulated in a rhombic form. Because of this arrangement of four, the motif developed is called as char bulbul chasam. Char Bulbul Chasam

It is derived from auspicious hindu term swastik. Black is avoided in this motif. Ganesh

It is a presentation of small bel and looks like overlaid triangles. Kainchu literally means small. Kainchu

It is a motif that has its structure similar to a comb. Kanghi

It is a motif that has its structure similar to a star.

Sitara

Tapsu is a plus sign motif which is used to decorate the borders of pattu and traditional shawl. Tapsu

It is a motif that is derived from the foot of mor. Mor Panja

It is a motif that runs width wise to form a bel structure. Leher Bel

RACHH

LOOMS
Height 55 inches, width- 60-65 inches Part of rachh: Nali shuttle Nari : bobbin Pauli : peddal shafts Pinjra : shaft frame Kanghi: reed Hatha: wooden battening frame Killi: stopper Brun: heedles Sut: cotton threads in heedles Garai: cloth beam The warp hanks are just tightly tied and hung onto the loom. Possible weaves -plain weave, twill weave, rib weave, basket weave, herringbone weave and diamond weave. The lifting of shafts is done manually by foot pedals. The weft is inserted by nali manually by hand.

Shuttle for Rachh loom locally known as Nali

KHADDI

Khaddi looms are bigger in size as compared to rachh looms. The height of khaddi loom is about 65 inches and width varies from 50 inches to 60 inches. The shuttles used in khaddi are known as nadu which is made of wood and the bobbin is known as nalki which is made of metal wire. The nalki is filled with yarns, placed inside nadu and placed onto a wooden plank attached to the Khaddi.

PARTS OF A KHADDI
GUTKA : Wooden blocks on each side of wooden plank GUTKA CHAMBA : Tough leather strap attached to Gutka MUTTHI : Cylindrical handle hung for pulling Gutka Chamba NADU : Shuttle NALKI : Bobbin KANGHI : Reed BRUN : Heedles LATHE : Wooden frame on which Reeds are attached

Nadu with Nalki

PITLOOM The pit dug for the loom setup is around 1.5 to 2 feet deep so that the feet can be settled comfortably upto the knees. The shafts are hung onto supporting bars which are connected to the foot pedals. The cloth beam is placed towards the weavers seat which enables the easy take ups of woven fabric by the weaver sitting inside the pit. The weft carrier used for pit loom is locally named as Nalu. The bobbin used along the Nalu is called as Shoondra. The weft yarns are wrapped around the bobbin and then inserted into the nalu. The heddles of the loom are made of cotton threads, sut. The heddles are known as brun and the reed is called as kanghi.

STRIP LOOM It has two shafts and plain weave is employed in the weaving of borders and inlay weft designs are made . Extra weft insertions are done to make borders which are then used in making of Kullu Caps and Shawls. The borders made are one inch to two inches broad. Mainly the Tmotif is made on this loom as it is easy to work with.

PRODUCTS

SHAWLS

Kullu shawls occupy place of pride among the handicrafts of Kullu. The origins of Kullu shawls are the Kinnauri shawls brought by the Bhushahra community of Kinnaur to Kullu when they migrated to the valley. This technique of shawl weaving and the Tibetan inspired geometric motifs of the Kinnauri Shawl borders were brought to Kullu.

PROCESS :Making of reels from Ruffle.

The drafting and denting of the ends is done by pulling them through the thread heedles and the reed with the help of fingers.
The warp is then set onto the loom, its ends are tied and its tension adjusted as per the requirement.

Cashmelon Threads used for Inlaying technique in Kullu Shawls

Shuttles filled with Yarns to be used for Weaving

The weft for the fly shuttle flame loom is wound on the warping machine.

It is transferred to the warp beam under tension. The warp ends are drafted and dented with a reed hook, the loom tie-ups and tension are re- adjusted and the loom is geared up for weaving.
After setting the warp the shafts, paddles and reed column are interconnected and two paddles at a time are lifted creating 2/2 twill 2/2 weft rib for design/motif. The decorative border of the shawls is always woven in a basket weave with the dovetailing or slit- tapestry techniques.

PATTTU Pattus are the traditional wear for women in the Kullu region and were made to wear during the winter season Ordinary Pattus are rough and thick and are known as Dohru and used as blankets. Women wear Pattu over their clothes by wrapping around their body securing at the shoulders with a pin, locally referred to as the boomani and tying at waist by a cloth belt called Gachhi. Pattus worn by women during festivals, weddings and for other special occasions are colourful and intricately woven where else those for everyday use are simple and plain with no design.

The different designs made on the Pattus are Plain The entire Pattu is covered with Chhiyan (Vertical and Horizontal lines) and both ends have a red colored border called dhari. Chitra This type of Pattu has black and white combination with red colored border at both ends. Daba This type of Pattu has black and white combination with one traditional pattern Ek Phulwala - This Pattu has different color combinations and one traditional pattern on both sides. Teen Phulwala This type of Pattu has different color combinations on three traditional sides.

DRAPING OF PATTU :

KULLU CAPS

Kullu caps are popularly called as Kullu topi which serves as an indispensible part of the Kullu mens attire. Kullu caps are very useful to deal with the biting and severe cold of the Himalayan kingdom of Himachal Pradesh.

RAW MATERIAL : The raw material required for the making of the Kullu caps are the hand-woven Kullu border made with the help of strip looms and tweed (blazer), rotto, malesia, buckram and threads of 2-ply or 3-ply. The approximate width of the border varies from 1 inch to 2 inches. PROCESS :

The Kullu cap has two main parts; the body and the border. The top round part is prepared by stitching the buckram onto the base cloth which is tweed. The piping is also attached onto the base fabric that will be used for the back.The border is the most important part of the cap and is made on a border loom separately. There are 1/2 to 3 in width and the length is according to the demand. They are to 3 in length according to the need. Small looms are used in making of borders. 2/44s cashmelon is used for warp and 2/32s casmelon two ply is used for weft. Many a times 2/44s worsted yarn is also used.

KNITTING

In Kullu, women are expert in making hand knitted woollen articles, which include woollen socks, gloves and caps. RAW MATERIALS : Artificially dyed wool and nylon wool for the stripes and patterns in bright acrylic colours is bought from Ludhiana, Punjab. DESIGNS AND MOTIF : Long hand-knitted socks are made with natural sheep wool contrasted with patterns in bright acrylic yarns or black and white. The colored stripes and geometric patterns used to enhance the natural shade of the wool resemble the border decorations of the Kullu shawl and caps and are woven along the top of the foot.

PROCESS : Hand-knitting is the old technique of fabric construction in which interlinked loops are made from a continuous yarn. Knitting of socks is done using a set of four double-pointed knitting needles so that knitting can be done on both sides creating tubes of knitting. First the stitches are cast on the needles to have a foundation just as is done for straight knitting. One major characteristic of knitting in the round is that the right side is always facing the craftsman and then all rows are knit one after another just as in straight knitting. Also, these socks are knitted with 4 needles instead of two.

PRICE :
The price of hand knitted woollens depends on the quality of wool and the pattern used. Socks can range from Rs 50 to Rs 400. the sweaters can range from Rs. 500 to Rs. 5000.

COSTUME AND JEWELLERY

COSTUMES

PATTU : Pattu is traditional wear for women in the Kullu region and is made to wear during the winter season. The woollen fabric is woven in different colors and designs and is thicker and heavier than shawls and the colors used are fast and bright. CHOLA : It is one of the oldest garment worn in Kullu, usually on the occasion of Fagli, made by grass and Fanola . It covers whole of the body and is closely fitted above waist. It is 38-43 inches in length and approximately 25-52 gores complete the skirt/garment. Circumference of the hem is 80-120 inches.
Sketch of a Pattu

Headcloth known as Dhatu

GACHHI :
Worn around the waist as a kamar bandh or a waist band by the men and women alike, Gachhi is a very functional outfit which not only keeps the hill people fit and erect even with the heavy load on their back while climbing a steep mountain ascent but also provide space in its numerous folds for inserting darat (a type of long handle sickle) and other items of use. Gachhi is sanctified by the religious traditions of the region as a sacred outfit like a dhoti in the main land.

DHATU :
Women in the village cover their head with the red or yellow colour cloth of approximately of 1 yard. Widows use black or white colored Dhatu. Sometimes flowers (gulmuch) are attached to the corners. About 1 metre of fabric is utilised. Sewing charges are Rs.30. It is still a part of the costume in villages.
Sketch of Gachhi

JUTOO : Jutoo is an ornament used to tie the plaits of women. Earlier it was made out of wool in which colorfull thick woollen threads were plaited along with the hair. Merino wool and cotton threads were also used to do the same. At the bottom of the plait, gold or silver wires were plaited with the hair along with ghungroos. This is commonly known as parandas. PULLAS : Pulla was the main footwear used earlier. It was made out of grass called dagda or kanola (rice) grass. Only front half of the foot is covered with pulla and it is opened from the back. The front part is decorated with colourful floral motifs. CHOLI/CHOLU : It is a type of blouse worn by both male and female. But men choli is now called Cholu. Cholu is longer than choli. Cholis have simple neckline and sleeve. Whereas in cholu, the shoulders and the cuffs of the sleeves are padded with extra cloth.

LEENG CHOLI :

Choli is part of the local bridal costume. Ghaghara (long skirt) is made by 4 sq metre cloth and was gifted to the sister in law of the bride. Similarly leeng chola is also made which is ornamented by silver buttons, ghungroos, etc.
PYJAMA : Earlier woollen pyjamas were worn by the locals but now-a-days churidars are more prevalent. Lenth of the churidar is around 40-50 inches, with about 15-25 gathers (churis) around the ankle. It is tied around the navel with the chord. KURTA : Kurta is comparatively a new addition to the costume of people of Kullu. It is made out of 2-3 meters of fine cloth with opening at the neck. It goes upto the knee. It was hand stitched earlier, now it is machine made. Sleeves can be folded up. DOHRU : Dohru litrally means a two-foldede blanket and essentially it is an extra large size pattu which is used in multi folds as quit by the people. Length of dohru may vary from 4 mtrs to 12 mtrs and the width may be well around 2 metres.

JEWELLERY

NOSE ORNAMENTS : Long A nose stud of gold

Tilli

Tilli Alight weight long for daily wear, also a sign of married woman.
Balu A nose ring of gold.(gifted by maternal uncle during marriage) Fuli A ring of gold worn in middle of nose, smaller than a Balu.

Ballu

HEAD ORNAMENTS :
Tunki Of silver and is used to cover the parting of the hair. Tora Hairband of silver. Tika It is an elaborate design with the combination of Tunki and Tora.

ARM ORNAMENTS : Toka It is a flat silver bracelet, which is around 4 broad and has floral design on it. Kangnu It is a silver bracelet with heads of tigers engraved on the ends. Jalibandh It is 4 broad silver band having intricate net for the design on it. It has small bells on one side (gungroo). Two ends of the bracelet are joined with the help of a nut. It is mostly worn in marriages and fairs.

FEET ORNAMENTS : Jhanjar Payal like ornament of silver for ankle. It is 3 to 4 inches wide. Bichhwa Silver rings worn on the toes.

EAR ORNAMENTS : Khundi A small golden or silver earring worn on the upper part of the ear. Bali It is a big golden ring worn in earlobe.

Balli

NECK ORNAMENTS : Sikkamala It is a silver necklace of coins. The coins are of the British era. This is also worn for the special occasions like marriages and festivals special occasions like marriages and fairs. Chandrahar It is made of silver and is worn during marriages and fairs.

Chandrahar

Sikkamala

MARKET RESEARCH

SHOPS VISITED : THAKUR SHAWLS DEVBHUMI SPINNIG MILLS RAM SINGH SHAWLS

PRODUCTS :

Kullu Shawls ( Rs. 450 6,000 /- ) Pattus ( Rs. 300 20,000/- ) Knitted Socks ( Rs. 50- 450/- ) Kullu Caps ( Rs. 100-500/-)