COMMUNICATING

FOR SUCCESS
Design Decisions

Copyright 2013 WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program

1.4
8.1

ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
FORMshould be in proportion to the shape of
the head and face, and the length and width of
neck and shoulder
SPACEis the area the style occupies; three
dimensional as well as having length, width, and
depth
LINEcreates form, design, and movement

FORM
The outline of the
hairstyle is the form.

LINES
The eye follows the lines in a
design.
The line creates the form,
design, and movement of the
hairstyle.
Four types of lines are
horizontal.
vertical.
diagonal.
curved.

CURVED LINES
Soften a design
Are circular in shape
Can be placed
horizontally, vertically,
or diagonally

DESIGNING WITH LINES

Four types of lines in hairstyles
Single lineone length
Repeating linesparallel lines
that are repetitive
Contrasting lineslines that
meet at a 90-degree angle
Transitional linescurved, and
used to soften horizontal or
vertical lines

COLOR PSYCHOLOGY
Certain colors tend to evoke certain reactions.
Lighter colors seem youthful and exciting.
Darker colors may seem seductive and mysterious.
Warm colors tend to be soft; cooler colors are bold
and dramatic.

CREATING DIMENSION WITH

COLOR
Light or warm colors
create the illusion of
volume.

Dark or cool colors

recede or move in
toward the head and
create illusions of less
volume.

CREATING LINES WITH

COLOR
By using a lighter
color, you can draw a
line in the direction
you want the eye to
travel.
Color lines create an
interesting or dramatic
accent.

COLOR SELECTION
Tone should be compatible with clients skin
tones.
If using two or more colors, they should be
within two levels of each other.
If using high-contrast colors, use one sparingly.

WAVE PATTERNS
Natural wave patterns can be straight, wavy, curly, or extremely
curly. Straight hair does well if cut one length. Wavy hair can be
styled with horizontal lines.
Wave patterns can be created temporarily using heat or wet
techniques such as curling irons, blow-dryers, rollers or pin curls,
or finger waves.
Permanent waves create wave patterns.
When designing with wave patterns, avoid too many
combinations. Smooth patterns accent the face; curly patterns
take away from the face.

PRINCIPALS OF HAIR DESIGN

PROPORTION
Relationships between objects relative to their
size should be harmonious.
Analogy: 60 TV in a small room or a 13 TV in
a large room is out of proportion.
Hairstyles can be designed to correct out-ofproportion face shapes.

BODY PROPORTION
Hair and body proportion
must be compatible.
A large hairstyle balances
a large body structure.
Hair should never be
wider than the center of
the shoulders.

BALANCE
Harmony or proportion in hairstyling
signifies proper degree of height and
width.
Balance can be symmetrical or
asymmetrical.

SYMMETRICAL BALANCE
Design is similar on
both sides of the
face.
Same length
Same volume
Same distance
from the center of
the face

ASYMMETRICAL
Features uneven
proportions
Is designed to balance
facial features
Has different lengths or
volume on opposite sides
Can be horizontal or
diagonal

RHYTHM
Rhythm is the regular,
recurrent pattern of
movement in a style;
it can be fast or slow.

EMPHASIS
Emphasis in hairstyle is what the eyes see first.
Eyes then travel to the rest of the design.
Emphasis is created in several ways:
Wave patterns
Color
Change in form
Ornamentation

HARMONY
Harmony is the orderly and pleasing
arrangement of shapes and lines.
It holds all elements of the design together.
A harmonious style is in proportion to the
clients facial and body structure.

HARMONY
In creating harmony between style and
facial features, consider
shape of headfront view (face shape), profile,
and back view.
features (perfect and imperfect).
body posture.

INFLUENCE OF HAIR TYPES

Hair type is based on two major characteristics:
wave patterns and hair texture.
Wave patterns are
straight.
wavy.
curly.
extremely curly.
Texture is fine, medium, or coarse.

COMBINATIONS OF HAIR
TYPES

Fine, straight
Straight, medium
Straight, coarse
Wavy, fine
Wavy, medium
Wavy, coarse
Curly, fine
Curly, medium
Curly, coarse
Extremely curly, fine
Extremely curly, medium
Extremely curly, coarse

FACIAL TYPES
The face is divided
into three zones:
Forehead to eyebrow
Eyebrows to end of
nose
End of nose to
bottom of chin

OVAL FACE
The contour and proportions of
the ideal face shape form the
basis for modifying all other
facial types.
A person with an oval face can
wear any hairstyle unless there
are other considerations such
as
eyeglasses.
length and shape of nose.
profile.

ROUND FACE
Round hairline and chin
line; wide face
Aim: To create illusion of
length to the face.
Styling choice: A style
that has height or volume
on top and closeness at
the sides.

SQUARE FACE
Wide at the temples, narrow
at the middle third of the
face, and squared off at the
jaw
Aim: To offset or round out
the square features.
Styling choice: Soften the
hair around the temples and
jaw, bringing the shape close
to the head. Create volume
around the temples and jaw.

TRIANGULAR (PEAR) FACE

Narrow forehead, wide
jaw and chin line
Aim: To create the
illusion of width in the
forehead.
Styling choice: Build a
hairstyle that has volume
at the temples and some
height at the top.

OBLONG FACE
Long, narrow face with hollow
cheeks
Aim: To make the face appear
shorter and wider.
Styling choice: Keep the hair
fairly close to the top of the
head. Add volume on the sides
to create the illusion of width.
Hair should not be too long
chin length is the most effective.

DIAMOND FACE
Narrow forehead, extreme
width through the cheekbones,
and narrow chin
Aim: To reduce the width
across the cheekbone line.
Styling choice: Increase the
fullness across the jaw line
and forehead while keeping
the hair close to the head at
the cheekbone line.

INVERTED TRIANGLE SHAPED

FACE
Wide forehead and narrow
chin line
Aim: To decrease the width
of the forehead and
increase the width in the
lower part of the face
Styling choice: Style close
to the head with no volume.
A fringe is recommended.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Divide face into thirds to complete face analysis.
Head shapes are not all round. Design for volume in areas that are
flat or small and the opposite for larger areas of the head.
Eyeglasses have become a fashion accessory. Keep this in mind
when designing an appropriate hairstyle.
Profile is the outline of the face, head, or figure seen in a side view.
The three basic profiles are
straight.
convex.
concave.

HAIR PARTS
A part can be focal point for a hairstylethe eye is drawn to it.
Parts should be clean and neat.
Use natural part whenever possible.
Partings for fringe
Triangular: is basic parting for bangs.
Diagonal: gives height to a round or square face, and width
to a long, thin face.
Curved part: used for receding hairline and high forehead.

STYLE PARTS
Side parts
Center parts
Diagonal parts
Zigzag parts

DESIGNING FOR MEN

Style should be
flattering and
appropriate for
clients career, hair
type, and lifestyle.

MUSTACHE AND BEARD

SHAPES
Facial hair can
discreetly disguise a
facial flaw.
Facial hair should
always appear wellgroomed and
flattering to the client,
regardless of the
current trend.

SUMMARY
It is the ability of the cosmetologist to select,
adapt, and execute a hairstyle that is both suitable
and desirable to the client.
You should apply the elements and principles of
design learned in this chapter.
Form, space, line, color, and wave patterns are all
essential elements in creating hairstyles.

SUMMARY
Proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and
harmony are used to create a total look.
Analyze the clients face and head shape when
designing a hairstyle.
It will take practice, but ultimately, you will develop
an innate sense for design lines that will flatter
and satisfy the client.