Classification of Textile

Fibres
According

to origin
Chemical composition

Fibers
Fibers

are the basic units or the basic components in

textiles.
They

are the smallest particles that make up yarn.

Yarns
Yarns used in the production of fabrics use
different types of fibres as their raw material.

Developments of fibres

Till the beginning of 20th century all fibres in use were natural

Around 1891-92 the first man-made Artificial Silk (Viscose rayon) was discovered

In 1938, Dupont developed the first synthetic polyamide fibre Nylon, followed by the
development of polyester

Thus a distinct class of man-made fibres/ synthetic fibres were developed

1950-60s acrylic, PP, PVA, Teflon, Lycra were developed

In the last fifty years of research a host of new improved man-made cellulosic,
protein, aramid and functional fibres have been developed

Fibres

Natural fibres

Man made fibres

Classification of fibres

Fibres
Natural
Vegetable/Cellulosic
Animal/Protein
Mineral

Man-made
Cellulosic
Synthetic
Protein
Mineral
Metallic

Natural fibres

Natural fibres are materials that grow in nature

Cotton
Flax
Silk
Wool

Man made fibres

Man made fibres are fibres created by man through technology. The fibreforming ingredients of man-made fibres are extruded, twisted or spun to
form a long chain polymer.

Man made fibres are divided into two groups-

Regenerated man made fibres

True man made fibres

Regenerated man made fibres- are made from cellulosic substances

or natural materials such as petrified wood, cotton linters, corn protein,
milk or seaweed.
The substances are reformed or generated by chemical treatment or may
be processes into usable fibres.

True man made fibres- True man- made fibres are synthesized
completely from non cellulosic substances or chemical substances such as
petroleum derivatives, nitrogen, hydrogen and carbon.

Composition /Origin of Natural Fibres

Fibre Type

Cellulosic / vegetable fibres

Origin

Cotton

Cotton boll/ Seed hair

Kopak
Coir
Hemp
Jute
Flax
Ramie
Pina
Sisal

Kopak Tree/ Seed hair

Coconut husk/nut husk fiber
Hemp or Abaca stalk/Bast fiber
Jute stalk/ Bast fiber
Flax stalk/ Bast fiber
Rhea or china grass/ bast fiber
Pineapple leaf/leaf fiber
Agava leaf/ leaf fiber

Fibre type

Origin

Silk
Specialty Fur fibers
Specialty hair fibres
Wool

Cultivated, Doupioni or wild silk worms

Selected fur bearing animals
Camel and goat family animals
Sheep

Mineral fibers

Asbestos

Verities of rock , Silicate of Mg and Ca

Rubber Fibers

Natural Rubber

Rubber Plant

Animal /Protein fibers

Composition /Origin of Man made

Fibres

Fiber Type

Origin

Cellulosic / Vegetable fibers

Acetate
Rayon
Triacetate

Cotton linters or wood

Cotton linters or wood
Cotton linters or wood

Protein Fibers

Azlon

Corn or Soybean

Mineral Fibers

Ceramic
Glass
Graphite

Minerals
Silica, sand, limestone
Carbon

Metal Fibers

Metallic

Al, Silver, Gold, stainless steel

Rubber fibers

Rubber

man made/ synthetic

Man made/ Synthetic long

chain polymer fibers

Fiber Type

Origin

Anidex
Acrylic
Modacrylic
Nylon

Monohydic Alcohol/ Acrylic Acid

Acrylonitrile (85%)
Acrylonitrile (35%- 84%)
Polyamide

Nytril
Olefin
polyester
Saran
Spandex
Vinal
Vinyon

Vinylidene Dinitrile ( 85%)

Ethylene or Propyleme (85%)
Dihydic Alcohol- Terephthalic acid
Vinylidene Chloride (80%)
Polyurethane (85%)
Vinyl Chloride (50%)
Vinyl Alocohol (85%)

Essential properties

Abrasion Resistance- is the ability to resist wear from rubbing that contributes to fabric
durability.

Exp- Nylon is used extensively in action outerwear, such as ski jackets , and soccer shorts,
because it is very strong and resist abrasion .

Absorbency Absorbency is the ability to take in moisture.

Fibers able to absorb water easily are called hydrophilic fibers.

Hydrophilic fibers- all natural animal and vegetable fibers and two manufactured fibers,
rayon and acetate.

Hydrophobic fibers- fibers that have difficulty absorbing water and are only able to absorb
small amounts .

Skin comfort, Static build-up, dimensional stability in water, stain removal, water
repellency, wrinkle recovery

Cover- cover is the ability to occupy an area. A thick fiber or one with crimp or curl gives
fabric better cover than a thin, straight fiber.

Elasticity- is the ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation ) and then
return to the original length when released (recovery)

Lengthening when tension is placed on the fiber or fabric makes for a more comfortable
garment and causes less seam stress.

Environmental conditions- the effect of environmental conditions on fibers vary. How

fabrics react to certain exposure or storage , is important. The following are some examples-

Wool garments needs to be mothproofed when stored because they are susceptible to damage
by these wool eating insects.

Nylon and silk show strength losses from extended exposure to sunlight. Therefore , they are
normally not used for curtains and drapes.

Cotton has poor resistance to mildew and should not be allowed to remain wet for long
periods of time.

Flammability- is the ability to ignite or burn.

Fibers are usually classified as being flammable flame resistant , or flameproof.

Flammable fibers- are relatively easy to ignite and sustain combustion.

Flame-resistant fibers- have a relatively high ignition temperature and slow rate of
burning .

Flame proof fibers- will not burn.

Regular polyester is flammable , but Trevira polyester , which is flame resistant.

Flexibility- is the capability of fibers to bend easily and repeatedly without breaking.

Hand- is the way a fiber, yarn or fabric feels when handled. The hand of the fiber is affected
by its shape, surface and configuration .

Luster- refers to the light reflected from a surface. Various characteristics of a fiber effect
the amount of luster.
Increased light reflection occurs from a smoother surface, less crimp, flatter cross sectional
shape and longer fiber length.

Pilling- is the formation of groups of short or broken fibers on the surface of a fabric that are
tangled together in the shape of tiny ball called pill.

Resiliency- is the capability of a material to spring back to shape after being creased, twisted
or distorted.
A fabric that has good resiliency does not wrinkle easily

Specific gravity- is the ratio of the mass of the fiber to an equal volume of water at 4degree
c.

Static Electricity- is a frictional electric charge caused by the rubbing together of two
dissimilar materials.

Strength- is a fibers ability to withstand stress.

Tenacity- the force needed to break the fiber, is known as tenacity and expressed in grams
per denier or grams per fiber weight.

Glass, Nylon and Polyester are very strong. Acetate and acrylic are weak.

Thermo plasticity- the ability of fibers to withstand heat exposure is an important factor
affecting their suitability for many end uses.

Wicking- is the ability of fiber to transfer moisture from one section to another. Usually the
moisture is along the fiber surface, but it may also pass through the fiber when a liquid is
absorbed by the fiber.