Professional Documents
Culture Documents
FRAGRANCES
The manufacture of perfume, cologne, toilette water.
PERFUMEINDUSTRY
Drastic changes due to:
Increase in the number of available raw material
ingredients
A variety of new types of products requiring
fragrances
Innovations in packaging
Broadened channels and methods of distribution
Growth in mens toiletries
PERFUMEINDUSTRY
Main changes in the industry:
Introduction of synthetics
Improved methods of obtaining true oils
PERFUME
Latin word perfumare
to fill with smoke
Perfume mixture of fragrant essential oils and aroma
compounds, fixatives, and solvents, used to give the
human body, objects and living spaces a pleasant
smell.
BACKHISTORY
Early incenses mixutre of finely
ground spices with myrrh or
storax
Discovered ointments
MODERNERA
The manufacturing process undergone drastic
changes
Finest modern perfumes are neither wholly synthetic
or completely natural.
to reduce the price, and
to introduce fragrances into the enchanting gamut
at present available
PERFUMES
Constituents of perfumes are:
vehicles or solvents
the fixatives, and
odoriferous elements
PERFUMEVEHICLES
Solvents used for blending and holding perfume
materials
e.g., ethyl alcohol and water at different ratios
depend on solubility of the oils employed
It is volatile nature and helps to project the sent it
carries
It is fairly inert to solute and not too irritating to
human skin
PERFUMEFIXATIVES
Fixatives may be defined as substances of lower
volatility of the perfume oils, which retard and even
up the rate of evaporation of the various odorous
constituents
animal secretions
resinous products
essential oils, and
synthetic chemicals
ANIMAL FIXATIVES
Civet soft fatty acid secretion of the perineal
gland of civet cat
Musk dried secretion of the preputial glands
of male musk deer found in Himalayas
Ambergris calculus, or secretion, developed
by certain whales
Musc zibata extracted from glands of
Louisiana muskrat. About 90% of the
unsaponifiable materials in the muskrat gland
consists of large, odorless cyclic acohols, which
are converted to ketones.
RESINOUS FIXATIVES
Normal or pathological exudates
from certain plants
Hard resins benzoin and gums
Soft resins myrrh and labdanum
Moderately soft (balsams) Peru
balsam, tolu balsam, copiaba and storax
Oily materials (oleoresins) terpenes
SYNTHETIC FIXATIVES
High-boiling and comparatively odourless esters
Some examples:
Glyceryl diacetate
Ethyl phthalate
Benzyl benzoate
Amyl benzoate
Cinnamic alcohol esters
Cinnamic acid esters
Musk ketone
Musk ambrette
Vanillin
Courmarin
PERFUMEODOROUS SUBSTANCE
Essential oils
Isolates
Synthetic or Semi-synthetic chemicals
ESSENTIAL OIL
Volatile, odoriferous oils of plant origin.
Connected with metabolism, fertilization, or protection
from enemies.
It found in buds, flowers, leaves, bark, stems, fruits,
seeds, wood, roots and rhizomes.
In some trees in oleoresinous exudates.
ESSENTIAL OIL
Insoluble in water and soluble in organic solvents
Enough of the oil may dissolve in water to give an
intense odor to the solution,
e.g., rose water or orange flavor water.
ESSENTIAL OIL
The compounds occuring in essential oils are
1. Esters mainly of benzoic, salicylic, acetic and cinnamic
acids
2. Alcohols Linalool, geraniol, citronellol, terpinol, menthol,
borneol
3. Aldehydes citral, citronellol, benzaldehyde,
cinnamaldehyde, vanillin
4. Acids benzoic, cinnamic, myristic, isovaleric in the free
state
5. Phenols eugenol, thymol, carvacrol
6. Ketones carvone, menthone, pulegone, irone, camphor,
methyl nonyl ketone, methyl heptenine
7. Esters cineole, internal ether (eucalyptole), anethole,
safrole
8. Lactones coumarin
9. Terpenes camphene, pinene, limonene, phellandrene,
cedrene
ISOLATES
Pure chemical compound whose source is an essential oil or
other natural perfume material.
eg. Eugenol from clove oil
EXTRACTIONPROCESS
OFESSENTIALOILS
Expression
Distillation
Extraction with volatile solvents
Enfleurage
EXPRESSION
cold pressed method is referred to in the
manufacture of essential oils, it basically refers to the
expression method, since no heat is involved in this
method.
It is the method used commercially
Produced the highest quality oil
Oil is forced from the material under high mechanical
pressure
A simple technique where fruits are cold pressed to
extract their essential oils using rollers or sponges.
DISTILLATION
Majority of oils are obtained with distillation, usually
with steam
Converts the volatile liquid (the essential oils) into a
vapor and then condenses the vapor back into a liquid
It is the most popular, and cost effective method in
use today in producing essential oils.
DISTILLATION
ENFLEURAGE
A cold-fat extraction process
Delicate flowers (Jasmine, tuberose, violet, etc.)
Fat or base, consists of highly purified mixture of 1
part tallow to 2 parts lard, with 0.6% benzoin added as
preservatives
Yields no direct oil on distillation
MANUFACTURINGPROCESS
COLLECTION
EXTRACTION
BLENDING
AGING
TYPESOFPERFUMES
Based on the concentration of aromatic compounds
(essential oil, perfume oil)
Aromatic
Compound
Concentration
(%)
Perfume
extract
1540%
Esprit de
Parfum
1530%
Eau de
Parfum
1020%
15%
Eau de
Toilette
515%
10%
Eau de
Cologne
38%
5%
Perfume mist
20%
FRAGRANCENOTES
Chemistry of
Flavors
- is the sensory impression of a food or
other substance,
and is determined mainly by the chemical
senses
of taste and smell.
WHAT IS FLAVOR?
in the past
now
complex
interaction of
taste,smell,
appearance,
feeling, exposure,
etc.
FLAVOR ENHANCERS
does not itself bring flavor to a dish
instead
it acts to heightens the diners
perception of
flavor .
Type
Description
Nature-identical flavoring
substances
Taste
Swee
t
Ex. Polyhidroxy
compound, saccharin
Salty
Bitte
r
Ex. Lean meat creatine
Coffee, cocoa caffeine
Sou
r
SWEETNESS
Sweetness is found in many types of
molecules (not just sugars), and
relative sweetness is normally
compared to sucrose
Natural sugars sucrose (1.0),
glucose (0.76), fructose (1.52)
Also artificial sweeteners sodium
cyclamate (30); acesulpham-K(140);
aspartame(200); saccharin (350);1n-propoxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene
SOURNESS
Sourness is assumed to be linked
with acidic solutions
Citric, malic, tartaric(grape),
isocitric, oxalic, acetic, lactic acid.
Citric acid was judged the most
sour, fumaric and tartaric about
equal and adipic least sour .
SALTINESS
The salty taste is best exhibited
by NaCl
The taste of salts depends on the
nature of both cation and anion
Salt substitutes based on
potassium chloride do not
enhance mouthfeel or balance
and increase bitter or metallic
off-notes
BITTERNESS
FRUIT FLAVOR
Aliphatic amino acids
alcohols+acidsesters (fruity)
Aromatic amino acids aromatic aldehydes
(spicy)
Fat free fatty acids acids + alcoholsesters
Terpenes (glycosidically bound) .
EXAMPLE OF FLAVORS
VANILLA (4-Hydroxy-3-methoxy-benzolaldehyde)
The vanilla bean is the
immature fruit of the orchid
Vanilla planifolia.
The green pods undergo
treatment from 3 to 5
months.
The glucoside glucovanillin
present in the bean has
been acted by a ferment
and split into glucose,
vanillin and other aromatics
CHO
OCH3
OH
PRODUCTION OF
CHOCOLATE
FOOD ADDITIVES
Substances other than basic food stuffs that are present in food as a re