A household chore is a specific piece of work required to

be done as a duty or for a specific fee, related to or used

in the running of a household. Indoor household chores
include cooking; setting the table and washing dishes;
cleaning such as sweeping, vacuuming, dusting, and
mopping; child and elder care; paying bills; and laundry.
While at one point in history
household chores performed
by members of the household
were not considered “of value”,
today economists include
household chores as a vital
part of the economy and
society. The decision to pay
others outside the household
for these services, will be an
expensive one.
Today, the laundry chores of the household are
generally considered the “work of the family”.
Children and adults can share in this responsibility.
 Laundry symbols, also called care symbols, are pictograms which represent
different methods of washing, drying, dry-cleaning and ironing clothing. They are
written on labels attached to clothing, to indicate how a particular item should
best be cleaned. There are different standards for care labels for the different
countries/regions of the world. The United States has its’ own care symbol, often
accompanied by written instructions…

Iron, High
Regular ironing, steam
or dry, may be
performed at High
setting (200C, 290F).
Machine Wash, Normal
Garment may be
laundered through the
use of hottest available Hand Wash
water, detergent or soap, Garment may be
agitation, and a machine laundered through the
designed for this use of water, detergent or
purpose. soap and gentle hand
manipulation.
 Successful laundering requires three forms of energy
in the right balance to remove soil from fabrics.

Mechanical energy
Thermal energy
supplied by the
supplied by hot Chemical energy supplied by machine’s washing
or warm water. the detergent and other action.
laundry additives.

As energy is reduced in any one of the three energy forms, another energy input
must be increased. This is necessary to restore a balance to the total washing
system in order to achieve the same level of laundering performance. If you lower
the temperature…you must increase the agitation or the chemicals.

Warm Water
It allows good cleaning action without as
much fading, wrinkling, and shrinking. 90
to 110 degrees Fahrenheit.
Hot Water
Usually, the hotter the water,
the cleaner and more germ-
free the clothing will be. It
tends to make some clothing
shrink, wrinkle, and fade. 130
degrees Fahrenheit or above.

Use a candy
thermometer to check
the temperature of the
cold, warm, and hot
water coming into your
machine.

Cold Water
More energy efficient; preferred for final rinse; heavily
soiled items may need to be pre-treated or soaked, or
washed for a longer period of time. 60 to 80 degrees
Fahrenheit. Water below 60 degrees does not clean well.
Cold water does not fade brights; cuts down on sudsing.
 Chemical energy is provided
by one or more laundry
additives.
In Ancient Roman times, human urine was
used for laundry. The urine was a source of
ammonium salts, and assisted in cleansing
cloth. Slaves assigned to clean and
thicken cloth, called “fullers”, would stand
ankle deep in tubs of urine and cloth. Urine,
also known as “wash”, was so important
to the fulling business that it was taxed.

By the medieval period (end of the 7th

century), fuller’s earth had been
introduced. This is a naturally-occurring
soft clay-like mineral substance
occurring in nature as an impure
hydrous aluminum silicate. It could
decolorize, filter, and purify oils and
greases. This was used alone or in
conjunction with the urine “wash”.
Soap for laundering has existed for centuries. The
basic raw materials are fats/oils (tallow or coconut)
and alkali (sodium or potassium hydroxide found
in plant ashes). Commercial soap-making in the
colonies was not introduced until 1608. Soaps
have one major drawback. They combine with the
minerals in hard water to form a lime soap or soap
curd (a sticky white or yellow residue that deposits
on the washer and the fabrics in the wash load).
There are two types of soaps used for laundering:

1. Powders are mild, and especially suited for lightly soiled

items and baby clothes.

2. Soap Bars are generally made from tallow or a combination

of tallow and cocoa (coconut oil). Borax and builders, such
as sodium silicate and sodium carbonate, are included to
improve performance and help soften water. A laundry or
hand soap bar is good for pretreating heavy soils and stains
prior to laundering, or for handwashing delicates.
 The first household detergents
were not manufactured until
Common Ingredients: 1930.
Surfactants - decrease surface tension of Detergents have essentially
water, making the water “wetter”; loosens soil replaced soap for laundering,
Sodium Carbonate or Bicarbonate – because they perform over a
neutralizes acidity and maintains pH levels broad range of water hardness
levels.
Builders – decrease water hardness, Considerable diversity of
enhancing surfactant’s ability ingredients exists among
Borax – a mineral that boosts cleaning laundry detergents.
Anti-re-deposition Agents – keeps loosened
dirt from reattaching to clean fabrics
Fragrance, Colorants, Bleaches
Enzymes – for protein-based stains
Fillers – anti-foaming agents or corrosion
inhibitors
Solvents – in liquid detergents to blend
additives
Fluorescent Whitening Agents – whitens and
brightens
 Bleach is a popular laundry aid and helps detergents remove
soils and stains. Through oxidization, laundry bleaches
convert soil into more soluble, colorless or dispersible
particles that can be removed by detergent and carried
away in the wash water.
The two general oxidizing types are:

1. sodium hypochlorite (also called chlorine or liquid

household bleach)
2. oxygen

Sodium hypochlorite and oxygen bleaches

should not be used together. The benefits of both
are lost when combined.

Color removers, considered

reducing bleaches, are also
products in the bleach category.
Chlorine bleaches: 1) Oxidize soil and aids in its removal
2) Act as a disinfectant on both
bacteria and viruses
3) Generally whiten fabrics

For best results, dilute bleach with a quart (0.95 L) of water and add about 5
minutes after the wash cycle has begun. Applying undiluted bleach directly
to fabrics may result in color removal and/or weakening of the fabric. Adding
bleach at the beginning of the wash cycle with the detergent destroys some
detergent ingredients (FWAs, enzymes). This reduces the effectiveness of
both detergent and bleach.
For washers with dispensers where bleach is automatically dispensed and
diluted, follow the manufacturer's instructions. The bleaching action of
sodium hypochlorite is essentially completed in about 5 minutes, even less
time in hot water, but slightly longer in cold.

Sodium hypochlorite bleach can be used on all washable, colorfast natural

fibers (cotton, linen) except protein fibers like wool, silk and mohair. It is also
safe on all washable synthetic and permanent press fabrics, except spandex.
 Oxygen bleaches are available in both a dry and
liquid form, and are suitable for all fabrics. The
hydrogen peroxide in or created by these bleaches
reacts with the soil and organic materials in the
wash to either decolorize or break them up.
Hydrogen peroxide provides a more gentle
bleaching action than sodium hypochlorite used in
chlorine bleaches, but does not disinfect.

Water temperature affects the bleaching rate of oxygen bleaches. Hot water
accelerates the bleaching action. As water temperature decreases below 130
degrees F, exposure time must be increased substantially.
Powdered oxygen bleaches also contain builders, surfactants, brighteners,
bluing agents, fragrance, and enzymes.
How to Use Oxygen Bleach:

Add oxygen bleach to the wash water before clothes are added. Do not pour
oxygen bleaches directly on wet colored fabrics without testing for
colorfastness first.
 Color removers, available as a packaged
product, contain sodium hydrosulfite, sodium
carbonate and sodium metasilicate. They have
the ability to remove most colors, but some
dyes, especially prints, cannot be removed. In
most cases, color will be reduced or removed
enough to permit re-dyeing to another color.
Color removers also help to whiten dingy colors,
to remove brown (rust) stains from clothes
washed in water that contains iron and
manganese, and to remove transferred dye
stains from whites washed with colored items.

Some forms, especially cloth-

types that can be added to the
wash load, may help absorb
dyes from the wash water so
they don’t redeposit on other
clothes.
Laundry bluing, available in
liquid form, contains a blue
pigment… usually
ultramarine blue. The
bluing should be diluted
with water prior to being
added to the washer at the
start of the wash or in the
final rinse. They are
designed to counteract the
natural yellowing of many
fabrics.
A trace of blue in the wash
will enhance white and
light-colored articles,
making them appear whiter
and brighter.
 Boosters are laundry additives that
condition water to make detergent work
more effectively. Boosters are used in
combination with a laundry detergent to
get clothes clean. Boosters are
particularly effective for use with hard
water.

Boosters, available in powder or liquid

form, are designed to reinforce specific
performance characteristics desirable in
laundering. They should be used in the
wash in addition to the recommended
amount of detergent. Liquid boosters
can also be used for pre-treating stains.
Typical ingredients used in boosters are:
surfactants, builders, borax, enzymes,
corrosion inhibitors and fluorescent
brighteners.
 Disinfectants, available in liquid form, are
occasionally used as laundry additives. These
products contain germicides, usually selected
from the group including pine oil, phenolics
and coal tar derivatives. Disinfectants are used
to kill germs in the laundry. It is a good idea to
use a disinfectant when someone in your family
is sick, you use a laundromat, or clothes have
become contaminated from sewage waste (for
example, flood-soiled clothing). There are many
disinfectants on the market. Liquid chlorine
bleach is the most accessible, least expensive,
and easiest to use.

To sanitize clothing, add two tablespoons of liquid chlorine bleach per

washer load. Under normal conditions disinfectants are not needed in a
wash because other disinfectant factors may be present, such as hot water,
detergent, heat from the dryer and/or outdoor sunshine.

These powder products contain
combinations of enzymes,
builders, surfactants,
fluorescent brighteners, bluing
agents, fragrance and/or
possibly an oxygen bleach.
Enzyme presoak products
originated in the 1960s, and are
used for soaking the laundry
prior to washing to remove many
difficult stains and soils,
especially the protein-based
ones (e.g., egg, blood, grass,
etc.). They can also be used as a
booster in the wash in addition
to the recommended amount of
detergent.
 Fabric softeners,
introduced in the 1950s,
impart softness and/or
fluffiness to washable
Rinse-added Fabric Softeners fabrics. They also make
must be used in the final fabrics feel smooth,
rinse of the washer cycle to decrease static cling,
avoid adverse interactions impart a pleasing
with detergents or other fragrance, reduce drying
laundry additives. All rinse- time, reduce wrinkling
added fabric softeners should and make ironing easier.
be diluted and added directly Used as directed, they
to the rinse water or are safe for all washable
automatic softener dispenser. fabrics.
Avoid pouring fabric softener
directly on fabrics as staining
can occur.

Dryer-added fabric softeners are designed to be added to a load of clothes in the

dryer. With the sheet-type, fabric softener ingredients are carried on a nonwoven
sheet of synthetic fabric or a polyurethane foam. A packet-type fabric softener is
attached to a fin of the dryer drum. As the clothes tumble, the heat of the dryer
helps to transfer the softener to the clothes.
 Pre-wash soil and stain removers are products used to pre-treat heavily
soiled and stained areas. Their performance on Oil-Based stains on
polyester fibers is particularly effective. Pre-wash stain removers are
available in pump spray, liquid, gel, stick or aerosol forms. They may contain
surfactants and hydrotropes. Aerosols may contain solvents, such as
petroleum distillates. The solvents penetrate the fibers and help break
up/dissolve the grease and oil stains, while the surfactant helps disperse the
solvent/grease mixture during the wash.
 These products add a finishing touch to the
laundering process. They supply body to fabrics,
enhance soil resistance, facilitate soil removal in
the next wash and make ironing easier.

Fabric finishes and

sizings, available in
spray form, are Starch, available in dry,
formulated liquid or spray forms, is
especially for most effective on cotton or
synthetic fabrics or cotton-blend fabrics. The
blended fabrics dry and liquid types,
with a high requiring mixing with either
synthetic content. hot or cold water, can be
Silicones may also used in the washer for large
be present for ease starching jobs or used in a
in ironing to reduce basin for a few articles. The
sole plate build up. spray types are convenient
Borax may be for use when ironing or for
added to reduce quick touch up pressing on
scorching. collars, cuffs and trims.
 The primary function of a water softener is to
soften water, although it also provides
alkalinity, which enhances detergent cleaning.

Packaged Water Softeners

soften water by removing or
inactivating calcium and
magnesium ions present in
hard water. Choose a non-
precipitating variety, as the
precipitating form clouds the
water and can cling to fabrics
or washer parts, leaving a
chalky deposit. directions.
Mechanical Water Softeners are an effective
and practical solution in areas where water is
very hard. This equipment, installed in the
home, utilizes ion exchange resins to remove
calcium and magnesium hardness ions. This
is accomplished by exchanging calcium and
magnesium for sodium ions from the ion
exchange resins.
 Laundry was probably first done in
streams and letting the stream carry
away the materials causing stains and
smells, or in water-tight vats or large,
metal cauldrons that could be heated.
Laundry may still be done this way in
some less industrialized areas and rural
regions. Agitation helps remove the dirt,
so the laundry is often rubbed, twisted,
or slapped against flat rocks. Wooden
bats or clubs could be used to help with
beating the dirt out. These were called
washing beetles. Washboards were
eventually used also, as a rough surface
to loosen soil. Once clean, the clothes
were wrung out — twisted to remove
most of the water. Then they were hung
up on poles or clotheslines to dry, or
sometimes just spread out on clean
grass.
 The Industrial Revolution completely
transformed laundry technology with
“washing machines”. This term was
applied only to machines that use
water as the primary cleaning
solution, as opposed to dry cleaning
(which uses alternative cleaning
fluids, and is generally performed by
specialist businesses) or even
ultrasonic cleaners.

First came the mangle or wringer

in the 18th century — two long
rollers in a frame and a crank to
revolve them. Sopping wet clothing
was washed in a tub and cranked
through the mangle, compressing
the cloth and expelling the excess
water.
In the early 20th century inventors further
mechanized the laundry process with
various gas and electric powered washing
machines. The newer machines agitated,
had spin cycles, and powered wringers.
 Modern washing machines are available in two
main configurations: top loading and front
loading. The top loading design places the
clothes in a vertically-mounted perforated basket
that is contained within a water-retaining tub, with
a propeller-like agitator in the center of the
bottom of the basket. Clothes are loaded through
the top of the machine, which is covered with a
hinged door. During the wash cycle, the agitator
moves the clothing back and forth (oscillating
action) or up and down (this vertical
reciprocating action causes more tangling of
clothing). It uses approximately 17 gallons of Because they usually
water per load. incorporate a gearbox, clutch,
Top-loaders are not well-suited to cleaning crank, etc, top loading washers
large objects such as pillows or sleeping are mechanically more complex
bags due to the tendency for them to just than front loading machines but
float on the surface of the water without are generally lower maintenance
circulating, and the aggressive agitator since there is no need for a
action can damage delicate fabrics. complex door seal.
 Horizontal-axis Washing Machines (HWMs), or those with a front loading
design, mounts the inner basket and outer tub horizontally, and loading is
through a glass door at the front of the machine. Any agitation is supplied by
the rotation of the cylinder and by gravity. The clothes are lifted up by
paddles on the inside wall of the drum and then dropped. This tumbling
action flexes the weave of the fabric and forces water and detergent solution
through the clothes load.
Less water
Front loading washers are 4-8 gallons per load
mechanically simple Less detergent
compared to top-loaders, or other additives.
with only a pulley wheel Less wear on clothes
instead of a gearbox, clutch due to tumbling rather
or crank. However, a front- than agitation
loader must tightly seal the More space-saving
door shut with a gasket or designs (stacking and
bellows to prevent dripping under-the-counter)
water onto the floor during
the wash cycle. This access
door is locked shut during
the entire wash cycle.
Tub Linings that are stainless-steel are best, as they don’t rust and can withstand
higher spin speeds that in turn will speed drying.
Dials or Touchpad Controls should be legible, easy to push or turn, and logically
arranged. Touchpad controls tend to be more versatile; for instance, you may be able to
save favorite settings or custom program the menu.
Lights or signals indicate the end of a cycle.
Automatic door locks prevent children from opening the lid or water spillage
Water levels are set automatically on front-loaders, and have three or more levels on
top-loaders
Automatic Temperature Control adjusts the flow for the correct wash temperature,
mixing hot and cold water in correct proportions. This feature is useful if your incoming
water is very cold or if your washer is a long way from the water heater.
Extra Rinse features can help those sensitive to detergent residue
Extended Spin allows for more water to be removed from laundry
Time-Delay feature lets you program the washer to start at a later time, such as at night,
when your utility rates are low.
Automatic Dispensers for bleach, detergent, and fabric-softener release powder or liquid
at the appropriate time in the cycle. Bleach dispensers also prevent spattering.
 1. Check clothing tags. Read the
tags thoroughly to determine how
the clothes should be washed
dried and ironed. Most items will
have mainly normal washing
instructions. You might be
surprised though that you have
items that are meant to be hand
washed or not dried in the drier.

2. Turn clothing right side out. Make sure none

of the legs of your pants, or arms of your
shirts are stuck in the garment improperly.
Clasp latches of overalls; fasten bras, tie
hood cords. If you had any clothing tags that
instructed you to wash the clothing inside out,
make sure you remembered to do so.

3. Check all pockets. One facial tissue or tube

of lipstick can cause many problems.
 4. Check for sewing
repairs. Make sure there
aren’t any loose threads,
rips, button repairs, or
other sewing repairs. If
you find any, repair them
before you wash the
clothes. Washing them
with problems will only
make the problems bigger.

5. Check for stains. They will need to be

pretreated or presoaked before washing and
drying. The presoak time should be at least
30 minutes. If you dry a stain with heat, it will
usually make it permanent.
6. Sort the clothing.
Whites- Whites go separate because we want them to stay white. More often
than not whites need a warmer water temperature than other clothing to
ensure proper cleaning.
Reds and/or Bright Colors- Colorfast pinks, purples, reds, and oranges can be
mixed together to make a full load. Warning, red clothing is notorious for
losing its color and bleeding onto other fabrics. When in doubt wash reds
separately.
Lint producers - Towels are lint producers. The lint they give off sticks to
other types of clothing. You can wash towels with blankets, sheets, and
robes as long as everything is colorfast.
Specialty Items- These are things that have to be washed separately, are not
colorfast, can’t be dried, or have otherwise special instructions that keep
them separate.
Darks – Jeans, hosiery, and other dark or bright colors that may bleed
Delicates – lingerie, smooth knits, and blouses may need delicate agitation
Lights – colored, but don’t “bleed”(dyes come out into the water or fade)
7. Set the Water Temperature. Set the temperature
according to colors of clothing, soil level on
clothing, and type of fabrics. A cold rinse is
adequate for all loads, saves energy and is
preferred for permanent press fabrics to reduce
wrinkling.

8. Set the Water Level, if needed

9. Add appropriate laundry

additives. The amount
necessary for good soil
removal will vary with the load
size, soil conditions, hardness
of water and the water volume
of the washer. Follow package
directions. Slightly smaller
amounts can be used in
softened water or for
lightly soiled loads.
10. Load the Washer Remember that bulk
counts more than weight. Fill the tub
loosely so that clothes have room to move
freely, and mix items of different sizes.
Don't wind large items around the agitator
or the tub; they will become tangled.
 11. Wash the Clothes. Set
the wash action (normal;
gentle) according to fabric
type, clothing construction,
and degree of soil. Regular
spin speed removes most of
the water and therefore
shortens drying time. A slow
or short spin should be used
for permanent press
garments to minimize
wrinkling.

12. Dry the clothes. You may hang clothes indoors or outdoors to dry in the
air, or use a machine. If using an automatic dryer, use care not to overload the
dryer and restrict air flow. Dry similar items at the same time, with sturdy and
heavy items needing a hotter temperature and longer drying period. A
“gentle” or “permanent press” cycle on your dryer has a cool-down period at
the end of the drying time that prevents wrinkling.
A clothes dryer or tumble dryer is a major household appliance that is used
to remove the residual moisture from a load of clothing and other textiles,
generally shortly after they are cleaned in a washing machine.
Most dryers consist of a rotating drum called a tumbler through which heat
is circulated to evaporate the moisture from the load. The tumbler, often
belt-driven, is rotated relatively slowly in order to maintain space between
the articles in the load. Clothes dryers are either gas or electric… using
either electricity or gas to heat the air, but both requiring electricity to rotate
the drum.
The automatic clothes dryer
saves time and is not dependent
on the weather, as line drying
outdoors can be.
If a cool-down cycle is used, and
if clothing is removed and folded
or hung immediately, it can
eliminate wrinkles.
Clothes dryers cause static
electricity. The use of a fabric
softener can help with this.
 The average dryer costs $85/year, when
compared to other household appliances it is second in
energy usage to the refrigerator.

Energy Conservation Tips:

Dry full loads, but don't overload. Separate lightweight and heavy clothes for
more energy-efficient drying. Don't over-dry clothes.

Clean the lint filter before drying each load. (this is also a fire safety issue)

Dry two or more loads in a row to take advantage of the heat still in the dryer.

Clean the machine. Periodically remove any buildup of lint and dust from the
dryer exhaust, the back of the dryer and behind the lint screen.

Periodically make sure the dryer's outside moisture exhaust is operating

properly and lint-free.

Be sure the dryer’s exhaust ducts are connected properly to the outside
terminals, using the straightest and shortest duct possible, and are not
blocked with lint.
NEVER RUN A DRYER COMPLETELY UNATTENDED!
 A clothes line or washing line is any type
of string, rope, cord, or twine that has
been stretched between two points,
generally outside, above the level of the
ground. Clothing that has recently been
washed is hung along the line to dry,
using clothes pegs or clothespins.

Washing lines may fall down due to the

weather, the weight of the clothing, or
being run into. While environmentally
sound, in some places, zoning
regulations may prohibit the use as
clothes lines are sometimes associated
with poverty or considered unaesthetic.
A good breeze will eliminate wrinkles.

Air-drying can give a fresh-air odor to clothing, and uses the sun as a
disinfectant. Sunlight, however, can cause colors to fade so dry bright /
deep dyed colors in the shade or where possible turn them inside out.
 A drying rack is a device intended for hanging
clothing to dry, similar in usage and function to
the clothesline. Usually constructed from wood
or metal, there are many types of drying racks,
including large, stationary outdoor racks,
smaller, folding portable racks, and wall
mounted drying racks.
A “clotheshorse”, also known as a
winterdyke, refers to a frame upon which
clothes are hung to dry. This is where we get
the term “clothes horse”, when referring to
people who like to own, display or wear lots
of clothing.
Air-drying eliminates static cling. Electric
dryers produce static electricity by rubbing
clothes over each other repeatedly. Air-dried
clothes feel a bit stiff at first. Adding fabric
softener in the wash adds softness and any
desired scent.
Air-drying is easier on your clothes, causing
less wear on seams and zippers and less heat
stress on fabric.

It's free! If you own a dryer, you're paying for

electricity and repairs.

Put heavy items near the ends of the line to

reduce sagging of the line.

Snap or shake an item briskly in the air and most of the wrinkles will disappear. Remove
any remaining by pulling the item smooth after hanging it.

Put hosiery and lingerie in a nylon-net bag in the washer and then hang them on the line.

Hang shirts by the tails and socks by the toes so clothespin marks won't be visible.

Hang jeans and towels folded over the line. Halfway through drying, turn them so they're
folded the other way, and they'll dry all the way through.

When hanging clothes outdoors, don't let them touch walls or posts, which may be dirty.
Hang fitted sheets folded over the line with the pockets on the inside, so they don't
catch leaves or other debris.
 A few clothing items may need to be
dried while laying flat on a surface. The
main purpose of flat drying is to prevent
stretching/shrinking.
Choose a surface that is absorbent to
speed the drying. A screen or grid-type
surface that allows air-flow underneath
the item would be ideal.

Shown here at the left is a newly-knit sweater.

It has been blocked (stretched to specific
measurements and shape), and is now laying
flat to dry in that shape.
Two disadvantages of flat drying are the
amount of space it requires and the long
length of time it takes to complete the drying
process.
 Ironing or smoothing is the work of using a
heated tool to remove wrinkles from washed
clothes. When the heated tool is moved back
and forth, it is called ironing. When it is placed
Ironing works by loosening in a near-stationary position on the fabric, it is
the bonds between the long- called pressing, and this may prevent any
chain polymer molecules in stretching of the fabric. The common tools for
the fibers of the material. this purpose are called "irons", though modern
While the molecules are hot, designs are no longer made of iron.
the fibers are straightened by
the weight of the iron, and
they hold their new shape as
they cool. Some fabrics, such
as cotton, require the
addition of water to loosen
the intermolecular bonds.
Many modern synthetic (man-
made) fabrics have special
finishes applied that require
little or no ironing. Ironing
may also be used as a
Ergonomic note: Continuous manual
germ/parasite killing hygienic
ironing can be a cause of repetitive strain
operation.
injury to the user's wrist.
 Metal pans filled with hot charcoal were used
for smoothing fabrics in China in the 1st
century BC.
Electrically-heated irons
were first introduced in From the 17th century, sadirons (meaning solid)
1882. The hot plate, began to be used. They were thick slabs of cast iron,
called the sole plate, is delta-shaped and with a handle, heated in a fire.
no longer made of iron These were also called flat irons. A later design
but of aluminum or consisted of an iron box which could be filled with
stainless steel, possibly hot coals, which had to be periodically aerated by
coated with a non-stick attaching a bellows. This type, often called a charcoal
surface. The heating iron or box iron, was on sale in the USA until at least
element is controlled by 1902. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth
a thermostat, switching centuries, there were many irons in use which were
the current on and off to heated by liquid fuel such as kerosene or alcohol.
maintain the selected
temperature. Later, steam
was used to iron Then to now…
clothing. The ironing
board was invented in
1858, a small, portable,
foldable table with a heat
resistant top.
.
 Features available on modern irons include see-
thru water reservoirs, and continuous or burst-of-
steam buttons. Thermostats maintain constant
temperature and can be set for a variety of fabrics
such as wool, cotton, linen, etc. Automatic safety
features shut the iron off if it is left in a flat
position or left undisturbed for 10-15 minutes.
Some irons can even be heated, and then used
cordlessly for brief periods of time. Cord minders
to keep the cord out of the way while ironing and
“rests” for holding the iron in a vertical position
Safe ironing temperatures when not in use are convenient. Some irons are
Acetate: 143 °C (290 °F) self-cleaning and have an anti-drip system.
Acrylic: 135 °C (275 °F)
Triacetate: 200 °C (390 °F)
Cotton: 204 °C (400 °F)
Linen: 230 °C (445 °F )
Lycra/Spandex: 135 °C (275 °F)
Nylon: 135 °C (275 °F)
Polyester: 148 °C (300 °F)
Silk: 148 °C (300 °F)
Viscose: 190 °C (375 °F)
Wool: 148 °C (300 °F)
 A laundromat is a facility where clothes
are washed and dried. Laundromats
which have staff to wash the clothing
are sometimes referred to as fluff-n-fold
The cleaning of clothing in a or drop-off services. Minimal service
laundromat is usually done by the centers may simply provide an
customer via self-service, coin- or attendant behind a counter to provide
card-operated washing machines change, sell laundry detergents, and
and dryers, usually specialized watch unattended machines for
ones designed to survive heavy potential theft of clothing.
use. Often, bill changers are
available on site to facilitate the
coin operation of the machines. In
many laundromats, cleaning
supplies such as detergent and
bleach are sold from vending
machines.

Apartment buildings, motels, and

dormitories often have common
laundry rooms, where residents
share washing machines and
dryers, similar to laundromats.
 The key to folding, hanging, and
putting away laundry is an
organized laundry area or room.
Have a table, countertop, or even
the top of the washer and dryer
free from clutter for folding.
Keep appropriate hangers and
a hanging rack or closet near
the dryer. Save steps by putting
hanging items directly on
hangers rather than folding and
toting them first. As you fold
clean laundry, place items in
baskets by individual person to
simplify the process of putting
it all away.
Organize closets and drawers, purging items never worn so there is ample room
for storing those that are. Set a side a small drawer or basket for socks that have
lost their mate in the wash. Sooner or later the other sock will turn up and the pair
can be put away with all the others.
 Dry cleaning is any cleaning process for
clothing and textiles using an organic
solvent other than water — generally
known as dry cleaning fluid, and typically
this is tetrachloroethylene. Dry cleaning
uses chemicals that will clean the surface
of the fabric without penetrating into the
fiber. The items are spot cleaned and then
immersed in the solvent; then the solvent
is extracted, taking the soil with it.

Dry cleaning is necessary for cleaning items

which would otherwise be damaged by water
and soap or detergent. Wool, silk, rayon and
acetate fabrics are at the top of the list. Also any
fabrics trimmed in suede or leather or fur, any
fabric with feathers, fancy beading, pearls,
rhinestones or glittery/shiny decorations such
as sequins and mirrors, and fine "designer" knit
suits.