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Phenol &
Lipids Terpenoids related
compounds
Other terpenoids of great importance for skin care practices are carotenoids,
retinoids, and the tocopherols-tocotrienols family.
These compounds are largely used as antioxidants, since they are effective in
quenching oxidative reactions and in retarding radical propagation. Their role
in skin care is particularly important because, owing to their lipophilic nature,
their action is directed to protect cellular membranes from processes of lipid
peroxidation.
Such a role is of primary importance for the maintenance of the integrity of
epithelia, And in particular of the epidermis, which is continuously threatened
by external prooxidant agents, including ultraviolet radiation, drugs, and air
pollutants. Besides external oxidants, the skin has also to contrast
endogenous reactive oxygen species and other radicals produced by cellular
metabolism.
PHENOLS AND RELATED COMPOUNDS
Simple phenolic compounds frequently bear diverse functional groups:
hydroxyls, aldehydes, carboxyls, and other substituents. Hydroxyl groups
are also frequently glycosylated. These compounds have in general an
antiseptic action and can be used for skin infections like acne. However,
they also show various other properties that can be exploited in skin
care. Salicylic acid, a simple phenolic acid extracted from willow trees
(Salix), is used as a nonirritative exfoliant in cosmetic treatments of fine
lines and wrinkles. Vanillin is extracted from the beans of the vanilla
orchid vine (Vanilla planifolia), and is one of the most important aromatic
flavors used in foods and cosmetics. Arbutin is a hydroquinone glucoside
present in bearberry plants in the genus Arctostaphylos, which can
reduce the formation of melanin via tyrosinase inhibition and is used to
contrast skin hyperpigmentations
FLAVONOIDS
Flavonoids are polyphenolic compounds, typical of higher plants,
which for their extreme diversification and biological properties
deserve a specific description.
Flavonoids are very common in plants, where they can be found in
fruits, seeds, stems, and flowers.
The most famous alkaloids include cocaine from the coca plant
(Erythroxylon coca), the opioids morphine and codeine from the opium
poppy (Papaver somniferum), atropine from the deadly nightshade
(Atropa belladonna), nicotine from tobacco (Nicotiana tabacum),
strychnine from the nux vomica tree (Strychnos nux-vomica), mescaline
from the peyote cactus (Lophophora williamsii) and related species, and
capsaicin from chili pepper plants of the genus Capsicum.
Mechanism Actions of
Moisturizers
Collagen
Skin barrier
Occlusives Humectants Emmolients and
components
polypeptide
1.OCCLUSIVES
For this reason, they work better when combined with occlusives.
TYROSINASE INHIBITORS
Tyrosinase, the enzyme that controls the synthesis of melanin,
is a unique product of melanocytes . It is considered to be the
rate-limiting enzyme for the biosynthesis of melanin in
epidermal melanocytes. Therefore, tyrosinase activity is
thought to be a major regulatory step in melanogenesis.
Several products on the market contain ingredients that inhibit
tyrosinase and thus decrease melanin formation
Hydroquinone
Arbutin
Licorice
Aloesin
MELANOSOME-TRANSFER INHIBITORS
Niacinamide
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is the
biologically active amide of vitamin B3. Niacinamide
has been shown to exhibit anti inflammatory,
antioxidant, and immunomodulatory properties. In
addition, it has been demonstrated to inhibit the
transfer of melanosomes to epidermal keratinocytes.
Soy
The soybean plant belongs to the pea family,
Leguminosae. Soy is found in tofu products as well as
in soybeans and soymilk. Chinese folklore suggests
that Chinese women who work in the tofu industry
have beautiful skin.
MELANOCYTE-CYTOTOXIC AGENTS
Azelaic Acid
Monobenzone
ANTIOXIDANTS
Antioxidants are popular additives in skin care
preparations for several reasons. In addition to
exhibiting antiaging, anticarcinogenic, and anti
inflammatory activities, they may also decrease
pigmentation that occurs after exposure to UV
light.This may be useful in the treatment of melasma.
ACNE
2. The conditions following harvesting may also affect the constituents of the
botanical. These variables include harvesting time, care of botanical products
during transport, storage time for the botanical, processing methods, and
manufacturing of the finished product.
3. The biologic activity of the herbal extract is affected by the condition of the
plant, which must be healthy anddisease free.
4. Botanicals are affected by the portion of the plant selected for harvesting.
There are differences in the mix and concentrations of the active ingredients
between flowers, berries, stems, bark, roots, and rhizomes. Familiarity with
phytomedicine is important to ensure the recommended product contains
the correct plant parts for the desired effect.