Pattern Making

In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is an original garment from which other garments of a similar style are copied, or the paper or cardboard templates from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling (sometimes called paper patterns). Each piece usually has all the information needed for cutting out and making the garment.

Two methods used to develop the patterns for garment construction: 1.Constructing or drafting basic patterns. 2.Adjusting the commercial basic patterns.

Principles of Pattern Making

A basic pattern set comprises of five things :the front, the back, bodice, skirt and sleeve. The original working pattern is always retained in its original shape and it is used as a basis of developing a variety of other patterns and shapes. Patterns can be manipulated and changed.

The slash and spread technique The original pattern is spread,slashed,cut and manipulated to form a new pattern or shape. It is then placed on another paper and retraced along the newly shaped lines. The lines are blended and the seam allowances, grain lines and necessary pattern information is added to complete the pattern.

The pivotal transfer technique This technique is more advanced and less time consuming. It involves the manipulation of the original working pattern into a new shape by pivoting, shifting and tracing instead of cutting. The working pattern is placed over the pattern paper and a push pin is inserted through the pivotal point which is most often the bust point or front dart.

Pattern Making Terminology

The pattern plot-This refers to the act of placing the lines on traced copy of the working pattern. Pattern Manipulation-This means to alter the original pattern. The pattern maker uses slashing and spreading or pivoting of pattern sections. Design pattern-This comprises of the finished pattern inclusive of all the features related to the design.

 Pivotal Point - This usually is the whole pattern drawn on either one half or one fourth of the original pattern. Seamless pattern -A pattern without any seams or hem allowances.The allowances are drawn directly on the fabric after the pattern has been traced. Blocks- The block is an outline of the shape of the body and is the starting point of garment construction.

 Grain Line-The grainline on the block pattern run parallel with centre front and centre back edges in the bodice and in case of sleeves or trousers straight down the middle. Landmarks-These are the designated points around the body that correspond with those on the form that are used for measuring the body sections when drafting and draping.

 Dot Marking-A pencil mark indicating a specific point on the pattern. Pin Marking-This means placing pins through the form in a series . Tracing-The blending and straightening of the pencil lines,cross marks or dot marks for the purpose of drawing the correct seam lenghts. First Pattern-The original pattern developed for each design is called first pattern.

 Production Pattern- A pattern set that has been test fit, corrected and perfected and comprises of all the pattern pieces. Pattern marker-A marker is a length of paper containing a copy of all pattern pieces to be cut at one time. All pattern symbols are clearly indicated on the pattern. Pattern Cutter-Using either computerized cutting machines or other cutting equipment, the pattern pieces are cut from the laid out fabric.

 Pattern SymbolsNotches Illustrated as a straight line, squared in the form of pattern edge with a cross bar at the end, it is used to indicate seam allowance, centre line, ease and gathers, zipper placement,foldline,hemline etc. Punches/Circles-Small circles which are placed to indicate dart intake, dart curves, button holes,trimmings,pocket placement etc Slits-These are used to indicate placket insertions or to indicate inside corners.